群岛花名册基础（更新中）

一份帮助你了解《The Isle》Evrima 模式中每种恐龙详细信息的指南，包括恐龙的食性、（大多数）恐龙造成的具体伤害值、特殊能力、各自的优缺点、筑巢方式以及各可玩恐龙的最佳饮食。最后是策略部分，（尝试）为每种恐龙创建对抗其他物种的通用生存策略。尽管《The Isle》这款游戏机制复杂，许多策略并非万能良方，而只是关于如何应对战斗以及在战斗之外生存的建议。《The Isle》是一款有趣的恐龙游戏，你可能会因为一小时前的某个决定而失去所有进度，尽管这款游戏非常无情，本指南也提供了各种生存技巧和策略。你将面临各种各样的情况。有些情况无论你做什么都是无法获胜的，而且尽管这些策略和技巧都很实用，但对一个人有效的方法，对另一个人可能并不适用。《The Isle》作为一款多人游戏，其玩家群体在不断发展，他们持续学习，形成新的策略来对抗旧策略，整体上难以预测。不幸的是，本指南仅能通过严格的测试、众包和一般事实，让你更好地了解游戏中的物种。 由于每个人的技能水平不同，能骗过一个玩家的方法可能骗不过另一个玩家。随着游戏本身的更新，本指南也会进行更新，纳入新的信息、策略和整体独特性内容。接下来是指南本身 《The Isle》（目前）有13个可选物种，还有一些额外的不可玩物种。让我们从不可玩物种开始介绍 美颌龙 - 小型食腐生物 【不可玩】

描述 - 这些小型食腐生物声名狼藉，一旦发现你丢下的任何尸体，就会变得非常烦人。它们是高效的清道夫，能迅速啃食任何无人看管的尸体。这些小害虫还有袭击巢穴的习性，会攻击任何遇到的幼崽。 属性 - 它们非常脆弱，造成的伤害微乎其微，因此不值得测量。 策略 - 尽情砍杀，直到一切结束。 翼手龙 - 小型食腐生物【不可游玩】

描述 - 小型飞行食腐生物，基本上就是带翅膀的腔骨龙。当有尸体掉落时它们也会生成，但基本上从不落地进食。不过，发现翼手龙可以提示你有尸体存在，虽然很难判断尸体是否可食用，但这是它们唯一的实际用途。它们还有攻击尸体周围几乎所有生物的倾向，对于幼崽和小型恐龙来说，这可能会造成不小的伤害。大多数时候它们只是烦人的骚扰。 属性 - 懒得费力气去测量这种小不点AI的属性数据。 策略 - 对付这种“鸽子”还需要策略？好吧。把它们引到会撞到墙壁之类的地方，这会让它们落到地面，然后就很容易被咬死。 野猪 - 幼崽的 apex predator（顶级掠食者）【不可游玩】

懦夫。真不知道它们还会不会攻击。这些东西除了逃跑什么都不会，真可悲。人类

描述：天啊，它们太脆弱了，几乎造成不了什么伤害。说实话真可怜。它们现在有枪了，但基本上就是个豌豆射手，伤害和它们踢击的伤害一样。唯一的好处是你可以连续射击。所有攻击都是15点伤害（我知道这真的很厉害）。F键切换小手电筒。X键是卧倒。 北票龙 - 小型杂食动物

优点： - 半水生生物，这意味着它能非常有效地躲避陆地上的捕食者以及水中的大型捕食者恐鳄。 - 就其体型而言，它具有极高的伤害潜力，是目前唯一能在一次攻击中有效秒杀同类的恐龙（按住左Alt键点击另一只贝氏喙龙的头部）。 - 在水中非常灵活。 - 其唯一真正依赖耐力的行为是奔跑和快速游泳。其所有攻击都不消耗耐力，跳跃消耗的耐力甚至比大多数角色都低 - 拥有令人惊讶的优秀坠落伤害抗性，你可以从相当高的地方把它扔下来，它也能安然无恙 - 爪子能造成严重的流血伤害，对迅猛龙和其他小型掠食者而言，这很容易致命 - 杂食性，因此可以食用多种食物，甚至能在水下觅食 - 能承受一定伤害，甚至能扛住犹他盗龙的一口而没事，前提不是爆头 缺点 - 在陆地上非常脆弱，没有充分理由的话，不建议远离水域 - 在较小体型阶段时，它们比以往任何时候都要弱尽管半水生特性能保障它们的安全，但它们自身非常脆弱 - 无法游过主动追击的恐鳄，最佳躲避方式是跳上岸逃跑，或者潜入水下尝试摆脱它们 - 水分流失速度中等，虽不如恐鳄严重，但也不算理想 - 与共享栖息地的捕食者不同，它们没有水感 【红醋栗】- 位于河流三角洲，容易找到，是旧版本遗留的灌木

螃蟹 - 可以在海滩上觅食或直接捕猎，是很好的营养来源

【鱼群觅食】在水面上的小涟漪周围游动，你可能会发现一群鱼。靠近这些鱼群并攻击它们，就能获得一些美味的鱼来食用（如果你想了解鱼类种类，请参考翼龙的鱼群食谱）。

刺角瓜 - 可在沼泽中找到。

野生马铃薯根 - 可在河流三角洲区域找到，将其挖掘出来

S Sumac - 一种生长在沼泽中的植物，能结红色浆果，具有恢复生命值的效果。

野生马铃薯藤——和根部完全一样，只能通过气味来识别，而且不需要挖出来。

青蛙 - 常见于水源附近，尤其是沼泽地带，容易击杀，也容易食用，是不错的小零食。

红菇属 - 栖息于蒂尔沼泽的蘑菇

Migration Zones - Swamp, Riverdelta (You can still forage and find AI like crabs, schooling fish, and frogs outside of your migration zones to eat) Misc - Can forage by going to the bottom of any water source, fresh or saltwater (you can forage in the ocean) latching onto the bottom of that water body and sniffing, in which you'll eventually smell bubbles. go to the source of the bubbles and forage the bubbles, idk what all you can get but i always get crabs from it, idk if you can get stuff like frogs. - As mentioned previously beipi can latch to the bottom of bodies of water while swimming, its as easy as holding the crouch key until you latch onto the bottom - You can leap out the water, height depends on your speed going up, if your deeper, you gain more speed as you go up and therefore more height when you burst out the water - You can use all attacks, on land, in water. hell even mid air dive you can use attacks - Regain some oxygen by executing a dive - Has a couple different swimming speeds, ontop of the waters surface you swim slowest, underwater you swim a little slower than a deino, But if your constantly diving you about match a deino swimming on the surface of the water in speed. if the deino is swimming underwater though it will easily outspeed you no matter what you do - If not latched or actively moving underwater you will passively float to the surface of the water -Jumping into the water auto initiates a dive assuming the water is deep enough - Pack cap of 12, the most of any dino. duck cult - Gains water overtime by relaxing in water, same as deino - Cannot graze - Can fish for schooling fish by swimming around and biting the school of fish to get a fish to eat. Beipiaosaurus - Extended Combat Stats - Peck is 20 damage + a little bleed, Swipe is 25 damage + alot of bleed, Alt swipe is 75 damage and major bleed, the alt attack seems to be divided into 3 seperate damage attacks all in one move, stats remain the same in water and in air mid-dive - Beipis alt attack costs 2%. jump is 5% of your stamina Stamina Stats - (Land/Running) Around 1.3 kilometers of distance, with a run time of around 2:25 with a regen time of 1:45 (sitting) and about 5 minutes (standing) - Carbs Diet (Land/Running) Only 1,750 meters of distance, a run time of 3:10 Swimming - distance you can swim above water is around 750 meters, with a swim time of 2:25, and regen of 5 minutes, Doing some fun math we can also calculate beipis swimming speed to be around 20.5 kph give or take - Carbs Diet (Swimming) Distance of... No change in any stats, distance, swim time or even regen Underwater Swimming - The distance you can cover is halved, being 600 meters with a swim time of 1:15, if you are underwater you also cannot regen stam, even while clinging. if your stam is fully empty you cannot ascend or autofloat to the surface. Using the same method for speed calculation as swimming on the surface, we can calculate beipis underwater swim speed to be around 29 Kph - Carbs Diet (Underwater) same as stam diet swimming, no noticeable change Growth Time - Perfect Diet only takes about 30 Minutes, on 30% growth it only takes about 40 minutes, 1 diet it takes around 55 minutes Sanctuary ends at 51%, And... Beipi is immune to bees entirely, bees will not attack you even at full adult Dehydration/Starvation/Oxygen - Beipi will dehydrate on land after 20 minutes, and starve out after 30 minutes, Beipi runs out of oxygen underwater after 1:45 Scent Range - 350 Meters Strats - Take a mixup of land and water, whenever you feel threatened on land, go to the water, threatened in water, go on land. most juvi carnivores don't wanna tussle with you and you can oneshot an unsuspecting troodon with an alt attack. surviving as the beipi isn't all too hard, most land carnivores can either be fought by the waterside with a combination of your bleed and raw damage from alt attacks and slashes or fled from into the water. - when it comes to pteras you can do one of two things, one: hide underwater and be pretty much untouchable occassionaly coming up for oxygen, or two: use your dive ability to jump up and take the ptera head on, since you can attack in air you can jump up as the ptera swoops over to get in good hits, or knock them in the water, which is certain death - when it comes to deinos, you can avoid them underwater in underwater bushes and such since they can't detect you while underwater, or you can run up on land to escape, they may lunge after you so make sure not to hop onto land when they're right behind you, also don't try diving over lunges, i doubt it'll work out very well - The deeper the water source often the better it is for protection, shallow rivers make it so terrestrial dinos have a much easier time running in after you to eat you, and depending how shallow, certain dropoffs of the river that harbor deep points may also hide deinos that you can't see until your in the deep spot with them. Diets - at adult its really up to you, S is always great if you expect to be brawl heavy, and aren't looking for a stamina based diet. whereas the full carbs diet fits the run away playstyle much better, but it's pretty meh, only about 45 seconds of running added and no swimming buff Nesting - nesting as beipi is relatively simple, make a nest with sticks, probably by the waterside, coast, or even on a rock if you can stash it up there. just do it somewhere that deinos won't notice and is a bit of a hussle for most terrestrial predators to get to. beipis nest in clutches of 8 eggs, the babies can't eat solid food until about 26%, and since its a stick nest it needs stick to stay heated, once babies hatch just keep them around the water, at their size they can easily hide underwater from deinos, on land excursions its best to keep them close incase anything rolls up on your babies, all around pretty simple Gallimimus - Small Tier Omnivore

优点： - 三种饮食状态下速度与食肉牛龙相近，使用【集结号令】后成为游戏中最快的（陆地）恐龙 - 尽管速度极快，但转弯半径相当不错 - 跳跃高度出色，拥有所有恐龙中最佳的坠落伤害抗性 - 可以击晕体型与其相近或更小的生物Dryos（某种生物）可以完全击倒对手 - 尽管它看起来瘦弱，但能承受相当严重的伤害。虽然牛龙的冲撞或重爪龙的撕咬能终结你，但你可以承受一些伤害并存活下来。 - 尽管你的饮食选择很少，但实际上这给了你很大的地图活动自由。 - 拥有充足的耐力和不错的耐力回复。 - 在幼年期阶段，它甚至快得离谱。 缺点 - 虽然一群Dryos可以欺负一些落单的角鼻龙，但似鸡龙并非特别为战斗设计，这也合理，因为它擅长逃跑。但面对犹他盗龙，一次扑击就能将你压制；肿头龙几乎无法被触及。你真正能欺负的只有幼崽和那些会被你的踢击击晕的小型生物。 - 被迫发出声响，要想跑得快就必须发出声响。尽管动员呼叫是可选的，但它会让你时刻处于易受攻击的状态。不是那种容易被抓住的方式，而是每个掠食者都会知道你的到来，并且可以设下一个有趣的小埋伏。 - 加速度并不是最好的，如果你被打了个措手不及，情况会很糟糕，尤其是当你从静止状态开始奔跑时。 【斑驳橙】——平原生物群系的常见主食，你会惊讶于有多少其他平原恐龙会把它们列入食谱！比如……幼年厚头龙。

螃蟹 - 容易在海岸找到。或者……你可以……不，那太坏了……好吧……如果你发现北鼻（beipi）拿着螃蟹，你可以从它那里偷一只。只是个想法……

【山灰】——在高地迁徙区很容易找到的植物！哦——小泰克龙刚吃掉了你正要去采的那株……别担心，我们再找一株就好！ 【龙舌兰】——有趣的芦荟类植物，在平原生物群系中很常见。

日光菊花朵 - 遍布中部地区。我们之间只能有一个小厚头龙

S萝卜花——一种在高地容易找到的食物，可恶的泰诺斯总把它们都吃光——或许你应该稍微减少它们的数量……

S 火草 - 一种在高地地区发现的粉色开花植物

腰果——一种高大的树状植物，会掉落腰果，相当不错。 青蛙——拜托，你自己就能找到它们。它们就生活在任何水源附近……那是贝皮（原词：beipi）在抓青蛙吗？

//南瓜 - 分享是好事。分享是好事。我们可以和年轻人分享。我们可以分享....

//萝卜根——你们谁也别想得到它。全都是我的。全都是我的。我要把你们踢死。我的——

Migration Zones - Highlands, Plains River (can still forage for crabs and frogs) Misc - Like beipi but on land, it can forage around in burrows to find stuff like compy's and frogs - tapping left or right click respectively while running makes you kick with your left or right leg, just a cool little detail - you can kick while jumping i guess - Has "paranoia sounds" in thick jungles, twigs snapping, footsteps, etc. - Pack limit of 8 members, Solid numbers for galli Combat Stats - Kick does 70 Damage, normal kick knocks down dinos around 250 kilos, and will not stun beyond that point. Alt kick knocks down around 150 kilos, and stuns up to the 250 kilo mark. Other gallis however, seem exempt from this rule, as an alt kick will stun another galli . the kick also applies bleed. Alt attack has no change other than being directional. and peck you already know the damage of - Diets and mobilize call, directly affect speed, with one diet you run 49 kph, which isn't bad but carno will easily catch you, with all diets its 55. basically matching carnos speed. the type of diets don't matter, as long as you have 3 slots filled. and if you have all 3 diets and use mobilize call? your speed gets increased to 70 KPH! a massive boost. the speed doesn't change based on how many gallis but the duration of the boost appears to change - Jump costs 6% stamina, the kicks while running costs 5% stamina. alt attacks cost 2% and can only be used while stationary Stamina Stats - Distance is 3,750 meters, the run time is 4 minutes, and regen time is 4 minutes as well (sitting) and 7 minutes (standing) (all stats in stamina assume max 3 diet speed) Carbs diet - Distance increases to 5 kilometers, with a run time of 5:20 Growth Times: Perfect diet: 1 hour, 30% growth 1 Hour 10 minutes, On one diet Its Around 1 Hour 25 Minutes Sanctuary cutoff begins at 36% Not long after at about 40% the bees begin stinging Starvation/Dehydration - After 45 minutes both your water and food run out, conveniently the same amount of time for both Scent Range - 350 Meters Strats - Dryo on steroids, due to its high speed its one of the few dinosaurs that can so actively thrive in the open plains carefree. of course you need some caution at times but if you can see your predators and be able to accelerate before they catch up you'll be just fine. galli thrives on being a ♥♥♥♥ to juvis and other small tiers, There Can Only Be One Of Us On This Island After All. - In general just play flighty, don't stop moving, dealing with any large creatures can basically be summed up as run in the opposite direction and your fine, even if your all alone you about match carnos speed and if they somehow catch up just juke em. galli is twice as agile. make sure to stay vigilant though, that acceleration will get the best of you if your not paying attention, especially when utahs pounce gets involved - for smaller predators like troodon, just keep moving, standing still is doom but running around not only makes you harder to hit but remember you can easily stun them with one kick if you land it and you outspeed them. one kick should be all it takes on troodon. and if you feel like you're losing, just run away. Diet - Hands down best diet is carbs diet all the way, perfect diet is of course always the best while growing but for a runner like this that stamina diet hits different, whats not to love? Nesting - Gallis create mound nests with clutches of six, and start eating solid food at about 14% when it comes to nesting i mean you can nest just about anywhere you want. although i would recommend nesting high up with your jump ability the utahs could raid high up nests like that. you could also nest in the plains, which sounds dumb but if you placed your nest in say, a bush in the middle of center. well for one predators will be seen a mile away, and the nest remains pretty hidden. any predators that come too close you can have some adult gallis lead away and lose them. and when babies hatch they're already hella fast, and using mobilize call with them will only allow them to run faster. honestly pretty easy nesting Dilophosaurus - Small Tier Carnivore

优点：生命值高、伤害强、速度快。总体而言，作为恐龙角色是相当不错的选择。 - 毒液效果：当然，你需要正确施加毒液。但一旦成功，对手可就有苦头吃了。 - bucks速度极快，所以全能玩家们，祝你们好运。 缺点：有趣的是，它有一些特定的弱点，这些弱点本应被更多利用，但实际情况并非如此。 - 幻觉效果很怕泥、水，甚至像悬崖和岩石这类地形，一遇到就会消失。 - 虽然基础生命值很高，但它对抗骨折和流血状态的能力不算最强。尽管它能很好地 counter 使用这些手段的恐龙，但并非对它们免疫，尤其是骨折。由于厚头龙可以用完全蓄力的冲撞将你击倒 - 说实话，双脊龙从高处坠落时受到的伤害很严重，但也没有那么夸张，坠落高度造成的伤害和角鼻龙差不多 - 滑稽的饮食 因此，野猪 - 容易击杀

无法识别内容，已删除。

厚头龙——与它们战斗可能有两种情况，要么轻松取胜，要么打得相当艰难。我们会在策略部分详细说明，但要注意【骨折】状态。如果你的厚头龙猎物试图正面硬扛，那你也可以直接正面迎战。但如果厚头龙在每次眩晕后拉开距离，以便持续对你造成眩晕？那这场战斗就会变得很棘手了。

S 棱齿龙——呃？好吧，我肯定这能把双脊龙喂得饱饱的

无法识别该内容，已按规则删除。

S Chicken——要是每有一种像鸟的动物出现在双脊龙的食谱里我就能得到五美分，那我现在能有两个五美分了！

无法识别或无法翻译，已删除。

似鸡龙——你不能直接撞倒它们，但如果你能伏击其中一只并让其中毒，那么捕捉它们的几率会大大提高，尤其是当幻觉发作时。

剑龙——天哪，猎物体型一下子大了不少，不过首先，你得用上毒液。可能需要咬上几口，如果你的剑龙用了很多甩尾攻击，还会用倒下这种简单的诱饵，这应该不成问题。一旦毒液生效，一定要利用那些幻觉进一步消耗剑龙的耐力，然后自己找准机会攻击。

山羊 - 咩嘿嘿嘿

// 海龟 - 嗯，这很合理

Dryo——比你更敏捷，但比gallis更容易被抓住，食物获取量更少。伏击这类生物可能两口就能解决。

Misc - He-He-Heeee - Dilo venom does not affect other dilos - Rough swim speed, the ceratosuchus gonna get yo ass - THE FOG IS COMING, THE FOG IS COMING - The call is surprisingly hard to locate, the weird tones and waving makes it hard to locate what direction the call even originates from (At Least For Me) - When a target is envenomed, running around makes your dilo spread their arms and lower their head Stats - Base bite damage is 85, an alt bite deals only 95 damage and consumes 2% stamina. The hallucinations deal 85 damage when they land, same as your bite damage. Speaking of those hallucinations, lets explain them now. - In the first stage your prey is seeing plenty of foggy stuff, the range and density of this fog seems to vary, a stego just starting out in this stage may see farther than a pachy in the first bite. after a few bites the stego will be in the same position. targets scented in first stage appear a blue color. - In the final stage your prey will be a purple color, and the fun part begins. hallucinations will appear on their own, at about a rate of 1 every... eh 20-ish seconds. you have the ability to summon your own ghosts by right clicking. this make you do a little funny laugh which summons a ghost for your envenomed prey. If the prey hits the ghost before it becomes "active" the ghost will dissappear having not done any damage. Manual ghosts take 10 seconds to recharge, PER charge, so if you use all your charges, tthey gonna regen one by one. (need to research juvi dilos affects on hallucinations,) Stamina - Well, normally this is where stam goes but uh... dilo doesn't use it for much but running tbh. so lets cover that aspect of dilo. Starting off strong dilo has a run time of 2:35 for a respectable 2 Kilometer distance ran with a regen time of 3:10 (Sitting) And 7 minutes (Standing) Carbs Diet - 3:25 run time for an impressive 2.75 Kilometers. Growth Times - Pending research Sanctuary ends at around 50% and bees start stinging basically the moment you hit 50% Starvation/Dehydration - 45 Minutes dehydration, 1 hour to starvation Scent Range - 150 Meters walking, 375 Stationary Strats - Lets start simple, dilo is quite a strong playable atm, it's not the most agile. but it's pretty darn good. your speed makes any unfavorable matchup pretty easy to run away from. Landing the hallucination is key for you playing dilo, not even final stage, just ANY venom stage. as the minmized visibility your prey will have is a great boost on your ability to murder them. - small carnivores shouldn't be too big a concern, if necessary mud is a pretty valid option or even giving them a hallucination and dipping. -you should always prioritize the ambush on your prey, it makes your life MUCH easier. once your prey IS envenomated don't be afraid to dive in for attacks, the difference from hallucination and real can be a tad hard to tell. - now on to the hallucinations themselves. You get basically two options from what i've seen, ghost conserving and using them in a way to land your own hits and make them waste their heavy stamina attacks, how conservative do you have to be? not too much, so long as keep the 10 second recharge in mind. The other fun method is just full ghost onslaughts, spam ghosts. let them fully recharge, SPAM GHOSTS AGAIN. this method (especially with bigger packs of dilos) can prove to be pretty deadly. Assuming your prey doesn't use water or mud. which if they do, your hunt is probably over. you can of course try the truly great strategy of "act like you left and stalk them until they leave the safezone they found" which might work. - Another thing to note is your agility, you aren't the most agile thing but it isn't terrible, so remember your alt bite is an option on dinos like omni and pachy. omni especially it's important to get them envenomed in order to stop their main strategy of bleeding you out. as they'll be havin quite the trip to try and monitor your bleeding status. - Dilo is pretty strong against its main prey. however against certain dinos of a larger size, such as carno and cerato. you'll def need group mates so they don't just follow your every move and easily take you out if you try anything. in general, groups of these big guys are much more efficient than solo. although solo is plenty viable for dilo Nesting - Requires further research Diet - Stam diet is the best here, running longer for this predator is absolutely key. of course perfect diet is always the best for growing and such. Herrerasaurus - Small Tier Carnivore

优点： - 擅长攀爬，能爬树、爬栅栏、爬高山 - 攻击操作简单，就其体型而言相当强力 - 咬击速度较快，配合其下落扑击的动作效果不错 - 作为树栖攀爬者，在地面上的移动速度也相当快 - 攀爬能力使其拥有出色的移动性 缺点： - 成长过程极其痛苦，幼年期在地面上行动迟缓且非常脆弱 - 食性有些奇怪，但不像双脊龙那么糟糕 - 虽然 Herrera玩起来确实很有趣，但其狩猎能力仅限于小型恐龙，像似鸵龙能压制它，鸡龙和肿头龙能轻易击晕它，战斗时会相当艰难 总结： Herrera - 值得一试！

腱龙——祝你猎捕到一只成年个体，但任何幼崽都可以考虑

野猪 - 将它们踢死

无法识别内容，已删除。

S鹿 - 易于猎杀，美味佳肴

S 棱齿龙 - 即使只是咬一口也能一击杀死，作为食物不怎么样

S Chicken——要是每次遇到像鸟一样的生物我都能得到五美分的话——行了行了，之前跟双脊龙已经玩过这个梗了。

橡树龙——真是个调皮的小家伙，那么该如何捕猎这些小家伙呢？其实很简单，就像【自由的小鸟】一样，没错！

翼龙——哈…… Herrera的食谱里有三种鸟类，我拿到三枚硬币！

贝皮——最好用下落扑击来伏击它们，由于其高伤害高流血的特殊攻击，在地面上与之战斗会非常艰难。

山羊——最容易击杀，也是不错的食物来源

// 海龟 - 翻滚

似鸡龙——说真的，杀死一只成年似鸡龙太难了……它们的alt踢会把你踢飞，而且只需要大约3只就能干掉你。造成最大伤害的下落扑击至关重要，然后你大概能咬2-3口，接着尝试在地面上与它战斗。 其他——按住F和鼠标左键会让它亮出它的小垂肉，而且还会发光！说实话挺酷的。 - 埃雷拉龙能够捕鱼，还能潜入水下。不过它的游泳耐力不是很好。 - 它也能潜水，耶！ - 你可以坐在树上，而且根据你所坐树枝的粗细，会有不同的动画，你甚至还能睡觉。 属性——撕咬造成30点伤害，alt攻击造成50点伤害，造成最大伤害且不会摔断腿的下落扑击造成225点伤害。腿部骨折时你能造成的最大伤害为325点（说实话相当不错）。耐力属性方面，交替撕咬消耗2%耐力。跳跃的启动取决于跳跃角度，从树上垂直落下可能消耗3%或更少的耐力。最常见的跳跃大约消耗6%耐力（用于你那些中等距离的伏击），而尝试从树上垂直跳向空中可能会消耗15%甚至更多的耐力。缓慢攀爬几乎不消耗耐力，当你没有耐力时只能进行缓慢攀爬。 sprint攀爬（疾跑攀爬）消耗的耐力更多，类似于在地面上疾跑。在地面上跳跃大约消耗6%耐力。1.5公里跑的耗时为2分钟。2:55 恢复时间（坐着）5分钟（站立） 碳水饮食 - 2:40 跑2公里的时间，效果不错 生长时间 - 需进一步研究 保护区在41%时结束，一旦达到41%，蜜蜂就会开始蜇人 脱水/饥饿/氧气 饥饿45分钟，脱水30分钟，潜水时氧气计时器仅可怜的25秒 气味范围 - 需进一步研究 策略 - 需进一步研究 筑巢 - 需进一步研究 饮食 - 完美的生长饮食（如果能获得的话）， scavenging效果相当好。然后最佳饮食要么是全S要么是全耐力。不过如果你愿意的话，骨折恢复可能是个不错的选择，前提是你喜欢以腿部为代价进行325点高伤害扑击，高风险高回报。完整的S属性也有助于这种游戏风格。而耐力加点对于更多的奔跑、攀爬以及所有这类有趣的活动来说总是很棒的。 翼龙 - 小型食肉生物

优点： - 具备飞行能力，其优势不言而喻 - 在地面上拥有不错的机动性，起飞速度也相当快 - 拥有其他恐龙无法获取的食物来源，能轻松捕食鱼群 - 几乎可以去往任何地方：悬崖峭壁？它们能飞上去。树顶？它们也能在那里歇息。无法攀登的山脉？近在咫尺的飞行 - 只要具备足够的战斗技巧，这些战斗机就能成为幼崽的克星，还能获得免费的器官 - 成长时间短且迅速 - 飞行途中若发生坠毁，多数情况下都能自救，所以问题不大 - 现在有了不错的食谱，甚至可以捕猎成年的小型生物，比如迅猛龙和北票龙来满足饮食需求 缺点 - 非常脆弱，几乎任何攻击都能将其击垮，甚至一只似鸡龙都能将你打死 - 泥浆有点麻烦，在泥浆中无法起飞，这是一个弱点，而且相当不必要 - 刚成年的腱龙和肿头龙能将你击晕，大约20%成长度的犹他盗龙可以通过扑击将你压制 【螃蟹】 - 虽然说明是随处可见，但我只能在海岸边找到它们

集群鱼——这些小鱼有很多种类，有热带的也有普通的，有长的也有短粗的，有带鳞甲的也有软乎乎的。它们是翼龙和偶尔是幼年期恐龙的美食，除此之外没什么特别的。你可以通过可饮用水面上的这些涟漪来确定集群鱼的位置。

热带鱼 - 具有鲜艳蓝橙配色的群游鱼类，十分耀眼。外形类似现实中的长耳太阳鱼。

古比鱼 - 一种外形类似小古比的鱼，是群游鱼中体型最小的，味道也相当不错

梭子鱼——确实是梭子鱼，我不明白为什么它会是群居鱼类，因为如果我没记错的话，梭子鱼是独居的捕食者。不过，它们确实很美味。

装甲鱼 - 外观有点像装甲，深色皮肤。一种集群鱼类的变种。看起来非常眼熟……等等，那是清道夫鱼吗？

S小鸡——我能说什么呢，它就是一只鸡

S 牛蛙——相当酷的家伙，对翼龙来说很美味，常见于沼泽和绿洲遗迹附近，但它们会在除海岸外的大多数水源处生成。

S 兔子 - 像猎杀鸡一样猎杀它们，从空中很容易发现，也很容易从空中杀死。

S迅猛龙——如果你能猎杀它们，那会是相当不错的一餐。当你俯身去啄食时，它们可能会跳跃扑向你。如果它们成群出现，千万不要尝试攻击，尤其是在地面上，你会被这些“老鼠”围攻。

Hypsi的饮食等级又改回S级了，之前明明已经从S级改成//了，开发者们对于Hypsi的饮食等级似乎还没下定决心。

【海龟】- 由于幼崽无法从所有尸体中获取食物，只能从器官和可食用尸体中获取，因此除了翼龙外，海龟对所有恐龙来说都毫无用处。

北票龙 - 不要在地面上捕猎它们，你会被撕碎。捕猎它们非常危险，因为它们的特殊攻击很容易一击秒杀你。尝试从空中捕猎是最安全的做法，如果它们在水中，可能会潜水躲避你，甚至从水中跳起来试图将你撞入水中或攻击你。

山羊。翼龙的食谱里有这东西挺奇怪的，但也不是不行，直接从空中捕猎它们，或者甚至在地面上追逐它们都行。

翼龙——这些飞行AI除了猎杀幼崽外终于有了别的用途，与它们进行空中战斗或许会很有趣。

Migration zones - Basically anywhere, even if you HAVE migration zones because of the ability of flight and the expansive diet ptera has you don't have to abide by them at all Misc - Good beginner carnivore that helps get a good perspective of the map, they have a pretty speedy growth time as well - One of the few dinos that doesn't really have natural predators, if you play skittish enough not much can actually touch you other than your own kind - Like hypsi it can live where it pleases, although to a lesser degree as the stamina regen you'd get from schooling fish is pretty useful, but as long as your in flying range of a decent river you should be perfectly fine - Ptera can cling to surfaces, flatter surfaces are much easier to cling too although you can even cling to the palm trees if you get good enough with the cling, you cannot regen stamina while clinging so its only really good for screenshots or if you need a spot to chill without the chance of a sneaky utah hopping up to wherever your at to bite ya. - Holding shift makes you go FAST, Airbrake make you go SLOW, but for THE LOVE OF GOD, Don't hold the air brake really high up and let go, for some reason the airbrake after being held for a little while, stops flight completely the moment you let go of the key, so you start free falling, which, ptera cannot handle large heights, at least not the heights you will be soaring at - Excellent juvi hunter, get those sweet sweet O R G A N S - Can't handle falls real well, I know. Shocker Innit? - Can pick up some heavy stuff and fly with it, idk the max weight but stuff up to hypsi size seems like you can grab and fly with it - Alt peck is SLIGHTLY stronger than a normal peck so make sure to use it when your on the ground hunting something like a hypsi or juvi utah, alt peck doesn't work in the air though - Dinos can jump. If they jump and collide with you, there's no saving you -Ptera can jump quite high, how is this useful? not a damn clue - Will never starve unless your dumb with the thing - pack limit is 6 members The Stats - Since biteforce is obvious in the character menu, and bleed isn't a factor on ptera, this will only have the stamina costs for jumping and taking off - Flying upward, increasing you speed with shift or holding w increases your stamina consumption the same way sprinting does, a simple jump costs 6% of your stamina, a normal takeoff is 8% of your stamina, The Running takeoff of course has its base sprinting cost but also a 10% cost for the actual successful takeoff. alt bite takes 2% stamina - Also, alt bite does 10 extra damage, coming out to be 30 damage over the 20 damage peck Growth Time: Perfect diet 45 minutes, 30% growth is 50 minutes, 1 Diet is 1 Hour Sanctuaries don't even exist for ptera, bees won't even sting you regardless of age Starvation/Dehydration - 30 minutes to dehydration, 45 minutes to starvation Pteranodon -Extended (Note, Steam Has A text Limit For Guides, Dumb As ♥♥♥♥ Ngl, Oh Well. Guess I'll Make Extended Parts That Are The Rest Of The Information) Scent Range - Scent range while walking is... i can't even tell because the distance is so small, i wanna say around 50 Meters? Same scent range while flying. Stamina stats - (Land) 475 meters of distance, 1 minute run time, Regen time (sitting) 4:15, and around 7 minutes (standing) Carbs diet - 625 meters of distance, 1:20 run time, Flight stats - All values are measured at sea level, so no altitude boosting the values. the first measurement is gaining altitude slowly and then allowing yourself to glide, The second being a sprinting altitude and allowing a slow glide (Slow) High altitude glide: 4:25 flight time with a distance of around 3500 (49 Kph) (Fast) High altitude glide: 8 Minute flight time, with a distance of around 7 Kilometers (49 Kph) The second set of measurements are more or less the same as the first, however SOME stamina is reserved to go to max glide speed (Slow) High altitude fast glide: 3 Minute flight time, with a distance of around 3500 (70 kph) (Fast) High altitude, fast glide: 5:30 flight time, with a distance of around 6,250 meters (70 kph) This set of info assumes a low altitude glide, basically maintaining altitude over time tapping the spacebar anytime the ptera gets TOO close to the ocean, the two measurements being a fast as possible sprint, and the slower glide. low altitude sprint glide: 30 second sprint time, 1 kilometer distance (120 Kph) low altitude, slow glide: A absolutely MASSIVE 16 minute flight time, with a distance of 13 kilometers (49 Kph) Summary - So what does all this information mean? well, it shows us what different kinds of flight do, and which is most efficient. if your intention is speed alone, you hold the sprint key and go for a low altitude sprint glide. as it is the FASTEST method, if you're looking for a balance of speed and distance, you take the route of either a slow ascending, high altitude glide, OR a slow ascending, high altitude, sprint glide. the fast ascending, high altitude glide is mainly good for people who may not know the map as well and need an aerial view, and is good enough for distance. the BEST flight method being to stay at low altitude, more or less under the tree canopy in height, and slowly gliding around to get the max distance, this is great for activites like skimming, hunting, or just exploring. now as mentioned before NONE of these values take the altitude you take off at into account, the takeoff point is ALWAYS sea level in these tests, these tests are also rough numbers that show trends, which is what we mainly want. in order to figure out what flight methods are best for which situations. So flight times may differ by a few seconds, or distances by a couple hundred meters. but it SHOULD be close to the numbers provided.(Carbs diet has no difference in flight times.) The Strats - Ptera being quite maneuverable while flying, you can pull some nifty stunts. They can dodge, dip, dive, duck and dodge - Your main things to fight will be all the juvi dinos, and some select small tiers at the upper tier of prey if your prey is especially dumb and doesn't know the jump key exists i'm sure you could slowly kill em, although death is likely - Hunt small dinos like hypsi and juvi utahs by land, its easier than trying to land hits by air - Alot of ptera combat is centered around timing, and tracking. Time your pecks effectively for a hit, locational damage does apply so depending what your hunting you'll most likely hit their head or body, if your prey can jump bait out jumps and peck as they jump, so pull up to where you can peck em at about their jump height - if your prey escapes and is not underwater, try tracking the same way any other canivore can. find the prints, lock on, follow them. You may have to fly at lower altitudes to track right - Fresh spawn pachys can fracture you, fresh carnos and tenos can stun you, try to avoid ground combat if you can, try to secure your kill by air - The upper echelon of prey being troodons, beipis and dryos are very deadly, for troodons and dryos i recommend facing these from air, but exerting extreme caution when doing so, as troodon will pin you with its pounce. beipi is a whole other story, with large bleed damage and the ability to dive, facing an adult is next to impossible, but the 50% ones you can easily land fast, and maul with 1 or 2 alt pecks - If you find a ptera cannibal, which is SUPER rare, its mainly luck who wins since both of you are moving so damn fast its hard to time a hit, i recommend diving into tree cover if your skilled enough to fly through it - Everything else is your preference of course, one does not HAVE to fight as ptera, quite a easy life -Scavenging is Super easy, find bodies by sky, check em for organs Nesting - Nesting on ptera is surprisingly easy, it does require sticks but those are super easy to get, you'll build your nest preferably high up, it can be just about anywhere, getting diets for your children should be easy enough at least two should be good, pteras lay in clutches of 4 eggs, in terms of the parenting itself, its often super easy because of how fast the pteras grow and how low management they are, if you nested somewhere nice and safe you don't even really have to watch them, just keep em fed, be aware though, Hatchling pteras CANNOT FLY, so don't let them fly and make sure to tell any new ptera hatchlings this fact as well, i have had many a baby dive to their doom because they thought they could fly. Babies eat solid food a little after 21% Diet - Idk really, probably something like bleed resist in all honesty, stam diet doesn't affect flying or regen, scent does nothing, pteras health regen is already great, most i can think is using the bleed resist diets Troodon - Small Tier Carnivore

优点： - 灵活性极高，就其体型而言，我原以为速度会较慢，但实际上相当敏捷。 - 毒液扑击的强度令人意外，在群体作战时能快速累积伤害。 - 耐力恢复能力出色，尤其是搭配耐力饮食时效果更佳。 - 扑击能让它们处于有利的攻击位置，使敌人难以反击，不过在扑击过程中仍有可能被击中。 - 体型小巧，极难被命中，也不易被发现。 缺点： - 生存能力脆弱，与Hypsi类似但不那么明显，不像Beipi，它需要更频繁地应对更强的陆地对手，几乎所有这些对手都能一击将其秒杀。保持警惕 - 尽管某些环境情况可能对你有利，但很多时候环境反而会对你不利。最浅的水域都可能迫使你后退，陷入泥沼则多半意味着死亡。你还可能会被树木和岩石蹭到。你的扑击与犹他盗龙的唯一区别在于，犹他盗龙可以随时跳开，而你必须先注入毒液。 - 咬合力很弱，在狩猎中真正有帮助的只有扑击。 因此，野猪——你可以独自捕猎野猪，但它们可能会在你扑击过程中反击。如果组队捕猎，应该相对容易放倒一头。

厚头龙——单独一只时可能有些挑战性，如果遇到一群，我不建议招惹。它们的特殊攻击不消耗耐力，而且它们的冲锋能轻松秒杀你。试着引诱它们发动有冷却时间的攻击，然后趁机发动扑击。

腱龙——啊，一个值得一战的对手。我们的战斗将成为传奇！

S鸡 - 优质幼崽食物，也是单人玩家的不错食物来源，这种生物相当容易猎杀

S兔子 - 比鸡快一点，还是很容易抓到

我很想看到幼年迅猛龙和秀颚龙打一架，那场面肯定很搞笑。

小型棱齿龙——扑过去就行，就这么简单。悄悄地、偷偷摸摸地靠近它。然后用扑击技能攻击它，甚至可以尝试头部撕咬。它们移动缓慢，但也更难被击中，所以在你不太可能失手的时候发动伏击是最好的选择。

南犹他盗龙——如果单独行动，这应该会是一次不错的狩猎。当然，当你扑向它们时可能会受到攻击，但你或许能活下来。如果是一群犹他盗龙，我不建议进行大规模的群体战斗。

山羊——极其容易猎杀，它们甚至无法对你进行反击。

橡树龙——速度比你快不了多少，我建议设下埋伏让它们流血，这样更容易追踪。你不能正面硬扛，但三次有效的扑击应该就能解决橡树龙。

// Pteranodon - I THINK you can pin these by pouncing them, but idk if it would kill them, if they try to swoop over you maybe jump up and either knock them down or pounce them from the sky. Misc - Holding right click as you pounce will allow you to hold on to whatever your pouncing will allow you to stay latched. you don't do any damage doing this or anything you just kinda ride the pounced. Make A Troodon Bus. - OOOOOOOOOWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA - Ooooo Pretty Colors - Pounce just like utahs new pounce does not cause you to be stunned - Sniffing lights up a dino that is envenomed, the color telling you what stage of venom they are in, a bright green color signifies 1st stage, a purple color signifies 2nd, and a DEEP purple color with the prey shaking like an earthquake means 3rd stage envenomation. - Pack limit of 10 members - Venom can be applied after 65% growth Combat Stats - Bite is a measly 15 damage and alt bite does not change the damage. now onto the juicy stuff. the first pounce deals 25 damage plus around 10 damage overtime, You have around 25 seconds to land another pounce to start stage 2.One call later and you can apply the second stage, which does the same damage and overtime damage. It also buys you another 25 seconds to land the stage 3 pounce. and after another small call stage 3 can be applied. at which 50 damage will be dished out. This does very little overtime damage and your prey is now official in stage 3. Any pounce done after the final call will do 75 damage with no overtime damage. How it seems you rack up time is pouncing adds about 25-ish seconds, up to a cap of around 45. What do i mean? if you have 20 seconds left, pouncing again adds 25 seconds, but if you're at 30 seconds left, pouncing won't go very high above the 45 second limit only adding about 15 seconds. - Jump costs about 5% stamina, and pounces take 5% stamina As well. both missed and landed. bucking will drain your stamina but because you hop off so fast it will barely take anything, maybe 5%? Stamina stats - 1,900 Meters distance traversed, 2:30 run time, Regen time 2:50 (sitting) 7 minutes (standing) Carbs diet - 2.4 Kilometers dtsance travelled , 3:15 Run time. Growth time: Perfect diet: 27 minutes and 30 seconds,but the time it takes you to get those diets probably goes up to 30 minutes, the reason for being so specific is that troodon growth is so quick the diets barely affect it, on 30% growth it takes 30 minutes, and on one diet it only takes around 40 minutes - Sanctuaries cutoff at 73% growth, although bees will not sting you at all, even at full adult Starvation/Dehydration - dehydration starts after 30 minutes, starvation begins after 45 minutes Scent Range - Scent range while moving is around 200 meters, Diet - (placing diet and nesting before strats, since i'm sure you've seen how long utahs thing is. and this small pack hunter has plenty of intricacies that need to be covered) Just go for stamina diet. at least two diets with three slots filled should grow you quick. but a stamina reliant boi such as troodon benefits quite a bit from the stamina diet. its health regen is pretty good and so is its stam regen, but more stamina means more pounces means more damage output. whats not to love? Nesting - Similar to hypsi except you can actually somewhat protect your nest, place it in hard to reach/spot places etc etc... Solo targets that stumble upon your nesting grounds can be killed. depending on what it is of course, i don't recommend fighting multiple targets but they should be relatively easy to lead away or attack into backing off. Nest is made of a mound nest with 5 eggs. babies eat solid food after 29% Troodon - (Extended) Solo Strats - Same deal as omni, where pack hunting and improving upon yourself are two seperate things. so lets get right into it - Solo Strats - these strats will be used to improve upon your own gameplay, not necessarily the groups, the bite is next to useless i would not recommend using it on large targets at all - make sure to use juking, alot. Troodon is incredibly agile and has some good speed to boot, but that won't mean anything if your dead. troodon is especially susceptible to getting hit mid pounce so make sure to make your pounces unpredictable, often by acting like your going to pounce only to have a team member do it for you, don't be afraid to play a risky pounce though, often your prey may adapt mid-fight and start to ignore your baits if they find you aren't aggressive enough, this also applies to the whole pack, your prey may start to realise your pack heavily relies on jukes and so become less responsive to them - Know how to pick targets, as troodon you thrive on picking off the weak, the young, and the lonely. solo targets are easiest to dispatch and juvis and injured dinos especially and if you spot a dino in a particularly tough spot to kill, like a wallowing pit or in shallow water, do not attempt to fight it, try and leave the location out of sight and wait for them to leave, a good distance from whatever was keeping them safe so they don't just go back in - Set up good ambush points, while yes you can reasonably frolic around in center and you should be fine, carnos can still be a threat. if your going into the open expanse keep a low profile, your size makes you harder to spot amongst the grass assuming your not the same colors as ronald mcdonald. - HOLD pounce, you can of course just tap for the same effect but that makes when you hop off predictable, a good strat is to hold rmb to stay latched and then randomly detatch, it may waste more stamina but it isn't as predictable and easy to hit Group Strats - Strategies for coordinated packs to use, starting with actually coordinate get in like a vc or something, the ingame chat is a horrible way to coordinate ngl, it absolutely sucks to try and hunt without it, and you may lose troodons after each hunt because of a lack of coordination. thankfully the ingame calls system after pounces makes it much easier to coordinate pounces - Lets talk about opening strategies, unlike its larger pack hunting counterpart the troodon thrives on moderation, your first pounce should always be one thats unnoticed, do not reveal your true numbers until well into stage three, only have a few troodons out to downplay the threat of your pack. you should not be making yourselves incredibly well known by the second pounce. or the third preferably. its around the third pounce that you may become active. since the humble troodon has nothing to gain from going one by one. once you hit stage 3 its full force. surround the opponent and swarm it, often by two's in order to not pounce eachother. always announce to your troodon brothers when you need stam, when your pouncing, etc. VC makes this easy to do - You have no real avenue to help your teammates as utah can. oh well - Troodon the little rat that it is doesn't need to much food at all, sustaining even larger packs than utah which it benefits from greatly - Make sure to use the lockon tracking, the pounce causes bleed and therefore makes your prey very trackable, prey that is envenomed glows like a hologram when smelling so its easy to spot them if you lose them. the color of the dino will range based on the stage of envenomation Utahraptor - Small Tier Carnivore

优点 - 非常灵活，拥有大量耐力且恢复速度相当不错 - 能够利用大多数其他恐龙（目前）无法使用的机制【流血】 - 使用扑击技能可以对对手叠加流血效果并造成一定伤害，同时在扑击过程中不会受到攻击，不过在你结束扑击跳开时对方有几率击中你，但除此之外扑击时你是无法被击中的 - 可以通过扑击压制并轻松让小型恐龙流血致死，任何比犹他盗龙小或体型相当的恐龙都在你的能力范围内 - 较高的跳跃高度使其具备机动性，能够躲藏在岩石和高处，避开像牛龙这样的捕食者 - 它们的副咬相对较快，能更好地发挥犹他盗龙擅长的游击战术 - 成长时间良好且迅速，犹他盗龙相当常见寻找朋友并不难——如果扑击未命中，将不再造成眩晕效果，因此使用时风险降低，但奖励依然不变。 缺点： - 有点脆弱，如果被特诺龙或食肉牛龙的眩晕技能命中，你就会被杀死。它确实是为群体狩猎时的游击战术而设计的。 - 它的头部相当大，由于头部很可能是你攻击犹他盗龙时最先击中的部位，这可不是什么好事。 - 不太擅长应对高于自身跳跃高度的地形，而且一旦骨折，愈合需要相当长的时间。 - 在早期阶段相当弱小，体型小时几乎会被任何生物击败。 结论：恶魔——已经解释过为什么我讨厌这些家伙，尽可能多地杀死它们。

'.'. 腱龙——相当棘手的猎物，即便是和熟练的伙伴一起，它也是一种很难对付的恐龙，要小心它的尾部和前爪。 '.'. 疯癫龙——这可不是你印象中的 legacy 厚头龙，这些家伙经过重做，能轻松击败犹他盗龙。它们容易被扑击，但能迅速造成骨折和眩晕效果，不过眩晕并不一定意味着游戏结束。它们擅长防御，但也可能趁你松懈时发动攻击，因为大多数厚头龙都极具攻击性，基本上是犹他盗龙的克星。

角鼻龙——战斗非常艰难。如果它们用蓄力咬击中你的头部，你必死无疑。此外，它们的呼哧能力会根据尸体的大小提供伤害和流血抗性，所以当它们与你争夺尸体，或者你与它们争夺尸体时，它们会承受更多伤害。它们的细菌咬伤会迅速对你造成伤害，尤其是在你从蓄力咬下幸存的情况下，但至少尾巴攻击不会触发这种效果。如果遇到多只角鼻龙，你应该撤退，即使你身处大群体中。

S 恐鳄 - 已重新加入犹他盗龙的食谱，原因不明。我猜你可以再次捕猎幼年恐鳄了。但是……祝你好运去杀死一只成年半水生、重达8吨、能一击致命且拥有【极高流血抗性】的鳄鱼。

南方巨兽龙（S Carnotaurus）——在会玩的人手中相当危险。它们的耐力值很低，你可以利用这一点，但除此之外，除了敏捷性，它们在各个方面都比你强，速度更快、力量更大、也更耐打。你可以用大量的流血伤害来放倒它们，但单靠一只犹他盗龙（Utahraptor）需要花不少功夫才能击败一头南方巨兽龙。它们总是很饿，会把你当成容易捕获的猎物。通常情况下，会是南方巨兽龙先发现你，因为它们是伏击掠食者，嗯，按理说应该是这样。

南方似鸵龙在单人狩猎时比较容易，但如果是在较大的群体中且你是单人的话，狩猎它们可能会更困难。如果你有一个大团队，狩猎它们应该不会有太大问题，尤其是当你扑向其中一只的时候。

S兔——非常活泼的动物，动作也出奇地敏捷。如果在一定时间内没有被抓住，它们就会挖洞消失。成年个体应该能一口将其咬死。

【剑龙 - 极度危险】成年剑龙的全力一击就能让你连续死亡三次，其亚种的攻击也足以致命。大多数剑龙可以被引诱消耗耐力，但它们的尾击范围很远，所以要小心。有些剑龙几乎无法接近，也不会上钩。对付它们的主要方法是扑击并造成流血伤害，尽管让其流血致死可能需要20多分钟，但这仍然比尝试对抗6000点生命值要好。

橡树龙——你的速度比橡树龙快一点，但它们的敏捷性远超于你。假设你攻击的是身体部位，它们至少能承受两次撕咬。如果你能扑到一只橡树龙，它很可能就活不成了。这些行动敏捷的动物非常罕见，如果你看到一只，它很可能不是愚笨的个体。

似鸡龙——速度快且非常敏捷，捕捉它们的最佳方法是快速扑击，让它们流血致死。注意它们可能结伴而行，还要小心它们的踢击。

鹿 - 速度相当快，容易击杀，它们那烦人的叫声总能让你知道附近有鹿。

Poisonous Food :Not really much yet, just don't be a cannibal and you should be perfectly fine Utahraptor - Extended Misc - Pounce won't hit right if your too far, it works pretty good close up but the smaller the target you're pouncing the more accurate you have to be, You'll lose stamina at a somewhat moderate pace, if the pounced dino starts bucking though, the stamina will deplete is seconds, so make sure to hop off when they start bucking. If you run out of stam while pouncing you fall off and either die or get very injured from the dino you were pouncing, if you do live you'll have a small amount of stamina to run away with - Some dinos can rub you off a pounce by running alongside a tree or rock while your pouncing them, this mechanic is the main way to get you off, as bucking barely does anything to make a utah ♥♥♥♥ off - Utah bork moment -Suffers from the cannibalism debuff, i mean duh its a pack hunter, killing other utahs is pretty useless anyways - Some dinos get pinned by a pounce, disabling all movement, these dinos are at utahs weight and smaller, just about every dino will die from one full stamina bar pin pounce, although utah will survive health wise, they will die from the bleed if they don't get to mud to stop the bleeding - Ackshually its omniraptor- I Do Not Care, Its Utahraptor Until We Get A Playable Called Utahraptor And Omniraptor. I Don't Mind If You Call It Omni, But I'm Calling It Utah - Pack limit of 8 members Stats - Damage: base bite damage : 65, Alt bite damage : 75, deflected pounce: also 75, Pounce full stamina bar, (without buck) Does a WHOPPING 900 Damage, And lasts 45 Seconds, so it has a DPS of 20 Pouncing (with bucking) Does around 350 Damage, lasting around 17 seconds, About half the value of normal pounce, depends when they start bucking. Smaller dinos like pachy and dilo will buck you off MUCH faster, so you apply less damage, Your prey uses around 20-30% of their own stamina on a full buck, assuming they don't rub you off. You can only land a pounce by pouncing their SIDES, so no front or back pouncing If you have full stamina and pin something, you will easily kill it with damage alone. even half a stam bar of pinning will probably screw them over with bleed damage. busted. - pounce is variable in its stamina usage but to initiate a pounce you use 5% of your stamina, Jumping uses 6% of your stamina, Alt bite uses 2% stamina. Bleed Damage:Although we can't get a measurable value we can explain the mechanics of how it works, the longer you hold, the more bleed damage you incur. just tapping to hop on and off does basically nothing. For reference, A Unbucked full pounce will bleed out a carno in just ONE pounce, easily. Even with bucking they might, the bleed hits hard. Stamina stats -Distance ran, 1750 meters ,2:15 run time, Time to regen 3 minutes (sitting) and 7 minutes (standing) Carbs diet - 2.3 Kilometers, 3 Minutes Growth time: Perfect diet, 1 hour. 30% growth, 1 hour 10 minutes, One diet, 1 hour 25 minutes Sanctuaries end at 44%, Bees begin stinging more or less instantly afterwards Starvation/Dehydration - 45 Minutes for starvation AND dehydration Scent Range - 200 Meters while moving, 400 Meters while stationary Utahraptor - Extended (Extended) Strats - Utahraptor is a very effective pack hunter, Keyword PACK Hunter, if your hunting as utah your going to need actual coordination, not mob mentality, many people confuse having multiple utahs for a "pack" when each utah is functioning on mob mentality, not pack mentality. "whats the difference?" you may ask, well. One relies on numbers and has no real strategy, this is what most random utahs grouped up on servers become, each utah is out for himself in the group and they have no actual strategy other than pounce the prey, maybe bite it and juke it. A PACK Mentality actually has a pack strategy, such as timing pounces to drain the most stamina possible on bucking, moving as a group to get the best ambush potential, communicating with each other so everyone knows who is going for a pounce so people don't just rush in and hit each other. The most effective utah packs often use some kind of Mic based chat to communicate quickly over the ingame chat, which i very much so recommend. so we'll list some strats for both solo gameplay to improve on yourself, and some pack strategies people can use, as a solo player. I may be missing things, if your a godly utah player be sure to add some things in the comments i can use Solo Strats - these strats will be used to improve upon your own gameplay, not necessarily the groups, when it comes to biting def use the alt bite when facing opponents where it can make a difference, think like pachy, extra damage for the target, whereas on carno, you may not use alt bite at all, maybe not even bite - If your facing smaller targets, pounces are good but often can be missed, either wait for your smaller targets to use attacks that may leave them vulnerable before initiating a pounce, such as pachy using their ram attack and missing, or use your alt bite to dispatch targets like this. - make sure to use juking, alot. Utah is a very agile dino and juking dinos out can drain very stamina heavy attacks, however make sure your juking doesn't get you in range of lethal attacks or become predictable, constantly mix up your jukes and hit and run attacks as your opponent may adapt mid-fight - When pouncing, make sure to prioritize where your looking, you jump off the dino in the direction you looking so if you wanna make some distance flip your camera so your looking behind yourself to jump off for extra distance - Know how to pick targets, if your playing utah don't lock on to the pachy, lock on to the dryo with the pachy, this can get more complicated as you get groups but in general go for Solo players, they are much easier to take on than multiple targets, whether that is multiple pachy's and teno's or fighting one carno. and if you spot a dino in a particularly tough spot to kill, like a wallowing pit or in shallow water, do not attempt to fight it, try and leave the location out of sight and wait for them to leave, a good distance from whatever was keeping them safe so they don't just go back in - Be cautious in the open, utah works good in the open, but you aren't invincible. camping certain areas like alongside the paths people travel along, or the ravine at highlands make for pretty good spots to start a hunt. Group Strats - Strategies for coordinated packs to use, starting with actually coordinate, get in like a vc or something, the ingame chat is a horrible way to coordinated ngl, it absolutely sucks to try and hunt without it, and you may lose utahs after each hunt because of a lack of coordination. - Now there's a couple opening strategies you can use, The onslaught mob mentality of pouncing by twos, this strat basically is pure damage and bleed, and is a good opener if you fear your opponent may try to get to an environmental advantage. The second opener is going 1 by 1 on pounces to drain the MOST stamina possible on the target, this of course is really good if your target is out in the open, or is slow and large enough that getting to an environmental advantage takes longer. if your prey isn't TOO deadly, you can try and rack damage with the ones method by having your packmates come in to bite them WHILE they buck, they'll either get more damaged and keep bucking, or stop bucking to attack, which gives you MORE pounce time. for some targets you can afford to waste alot of your stamina, as they're slow fat ♥♥♥♥♥ anyways, such as stego. but carno you'll need to save some stam to dodge charges and such. - Surround your targets, the camera only looks one way, especially note the direction a player is looking in by their head to tell whether they're looking at you or not, its not a 100% reliable method but its a good indicator as to who they're focusing on, especially if they're chasing a pack member, and its generally harder to focus on multiple targets surrounding you than multiple targets in a single direction - Help your teammates, if you see a man get knocked down by a pachy don't just sit there, go in and maul the pachy while its distracted, pounce it even to either force it to buck, or take heavy bleed damage while it attacks the utah. when dinos stun utahs, they seem to lock onto that stunned utah, which ironically is a perfect time to go in and try to pounce to either force a buck and save your teammate, or get heavy bleed damage in - Utahs are a very low management dino, a good 6 members should be able to kill most things other than large herds of multiple species or multiple carnos, Utahs don't eat much so they don't have as intense a limit as say, carno, although ten plus will go through plenty of food its not as extreme as 3 carnos - Make sure to use the lockon tracking, bleed is very easy to smell so as long as you get a good amount you should be able to track prey easily, watch for an ambush though, your focusing on smelling but at the same time make sure you look around, the prey your tracking may be closer than you think, and pop out to try and get a easy hit Nesting - Nesting as utah is very straightforward, surprisingly unlike most carnis, it nests in a mound and not with sticks, you have to sit on the eggs to keep them heated. start by building your nest, preferably somewhere safe, use your jumping ability to find somewhere high up maybe. Utahs lay six eggs in a clutch, protecting your nest will be an endeavor as you don't have brute strength to hold your ground, the best way to do so is two ways, if your in a pair and are also nesting its best to try and lure away bigger threats, unless your godly utahs i doubt you can take a big carno on with just one other utah, so instead have your mate not only be looking for food and occassionaly swapping with you but also watching for, and leading threats away, utahs grow relatively quick from the nest so once they hit about the juvi stage you can begin moving them around, if your in a bigger pack and nest, you can have a few utahs at the nest for protection if anything gets through while packmates stick around the area searching for things, in this case if a adult carno stumbles into the nesting area, you and your buds can probably hunt it down, or at least drive it off. babies eat solid food at 22% Diet - Stamina regen, all the other diets are pretty ♥♥♥♥, you can go for good growth as your growing but the stamina decay one is just redundant since stam diet does everything it does and more, its better to get stamina regen to regen alot quicker during fights so you can get back into a pounce AND to pounce longer and run longer Carnotaurus - Midtier Carnivore

优点 - 游戏中速度最快的恐龙，这还用多说吗？ - 如同打了类固醇的货运列车，拥有相当易用的冲锋能力，对厚头龙及更小的生物基本能一击必杀，对三角龙及类似体型的猎物也能造成致命伤 - 坠落抗性极佳，能承受几乎自身三倍身高的坠落，和厚头龙差不多，腿部力量训练效果显著 - 和大多数掠食者一样，食肉牛龙拥有（大多数）草食动物所缺乏的强大能力：它们可以选择是否战斗。十有八九你都能在速度或机动性上胜过猎物，一旦感觉身处危险，就能立刻逃跑。不过大多数猎物确实有对抗你的方法。假设在你伏击前，它们已经发现了你的存在 - 除敏捷和耐力外，你在各方面都优于许多比你小的恐龙 - 咬合力相当强，对毫无防备的犹他盗龙或厚头龙进行几次有力的撕咬通常足以将其杀死 - 生存能力不错，能承受大量伤害才会倒下 - 完全成年的食肉牛龙不会被击倒，只会被击晕 - 神级加速度加上冲锋能力，堪称完美伏击 缺点 - 转弯半径极差，只有在行走或原地转向时才能勉强转好弯 - 存在惯性问题，当重物移动速度极快时，它很难快速停下，导致大量滑行 - 所有生物都想杀死你，真的是所有生物如果你不是成年个体，那么任何生物都可能会试图杀死你。 - 食肉牛龙的饥饿感永远无法满足，通常而言，维持生存比选择食物更重要。 - 你的流血状态下降速度快得惊人，造成的伤害非常严重。 - 厚头龙是相当不错的猎物，它们似乎更喜欢南部地区，偶尔也会出现在东北部。独自狩猎它们应该相当容易，但如果是独自面对多只厚头龙，它们可能会打断你的腿并试图围攻你。如果有同伴一起，它们就是相对容易对付的猎物了。

腱龙——对于 carnivores（食肉恐龙）来说，它确实是珍贵的猎物。唯一能暂时满足你无尽饥饿的东西之一，对你而言就像厚头龙之于犹他盗龙，是天敌。你需要埋伏才能在战斗中获得优势，或者在战斗中发动冲锋。

野猪——它们狂怒、残忍、毫无怜悯。但你，你会比它们更甚。撕裂，撕碎，直到一切结束。

南犹他盗龙——该死，我拒绝叫它全盗龙。它们的扑击不再像以前那样好用，但也并非毫无用处。所以当你面对大群南犹他盗龙或者被多次扑击时，要留意你的流血状态。用你的冲撞技能来压制它们，4只一群的话应该可以击杀，超过这个数量就要小心了。

S迅猛龙——你可以很容易地猎杀它们，如果它们聚集在一起，就走进齐小腿深的水里来躲避它们。不过它们提供的食物不多。

橡树龙——虽然这些恐龙像独角兽一样稀有，但它是除了[其他食物来源]之外的另一种饮食选择。尽管它不是什么重要的恐龙，但我相信当你看到它时一定会感到饥饿。

鹿——体型更大的山羊，杀了吃掉吧，没必要留着它，除非你不需要食物。

似鸡龙——要出其不意地接近它们，如果它们知道你来了，追逐它们基本上是徒劳的，尤其是当它们使用【集结号召】时。

Misc - Swimming drains your stamina bad, i wouldn't recommend doing it unless your crossing - the turn radius on charge is a little better, you can nail a charge if you put some thought into it - Can survive solo although its better with buds - Not much can kill you assuming you run away from most fights, although there are a few matchups where your doomed no matter what you do, namely other carno's, Its an even playing field, and if you get hit with a charge your probably dead unless you can land your own charge to catch up or run away - Smaller pachy's can occasionally fracture you, its weird idk - Pack limit is 3 members The Stats - 175 For a normal bites, 200 For a alt bite, an insta charge (any charge under 2.5 seconds) will do 250 damage and no knockdown, a full chare (any charge OVER 2.5 seconds) will do 300 damage + knockdown on teno and smaller but a stun on dinos at 2.6 tons or carno weight - Charge startup costs 10% Stamina, and has an increased stamina drain compared to running Alt bite takes 2% stamina. Charge has a cooldown lasting 20 seconds Stamina stats - 1.7 Kilometers Distance ran, 1:50 runtime, Regen time 3:20 (sitting) 7 Minutes (standing) Stam diet - 2.3 Kilometer distance. 2:30 runtime Growth Times - Perfect diet - 2 hours, 30% growth takes 2 hours and 30 minutes, 5% growth takes around 3 hours and 5 minutes Sanctuary ends at around 25%. Bees begin stinging at the same time Dehydration/Starvation - Starvation sets in after 45 minutes, dehydration starts at 1 hour Scent Range - 200 Meters while moving (starting to notice a pattern) 400 while stationary Carnotaurus - Extended The Strats - Aight listen, i'm not here to tell you what you should and shouldn't hunt... But.... Carno functions way better as a smaller game hunter, now when i say "small game" i mean dinos its size or smaller, your charge is designed for taking on dinos of that size range. Carno also has several traits typical of an ambush predator, High speed and low stamina, this is something seen in cheetahs, they have incredible speed but don't last long. your best suited to taking on prey using an ambush that can either secure a kill entirely or fatally wound it. use the alt bite when you land charges, it can be the hit you need to take out a charged target, especially alt biting to the side, its impressively fast. - Hunting in the plains is not all that good compared to using the jungle and swamp to your advantage, not necessarily hunting IN the jungles or swamps, but bordering tree lines, sitting in dense foliage, often opposite of water or food sources, since things lock their camera when they drink or eat this can be a great ambush point to get a charge off unseen - be mindfull and track your preys movements, they can try and juke you and most often may do so, but if you predict movements well enough you can land a good charge or bite off - Utahs should be stalked until an opportunity arises, unless solo or in pairs, with bigger groups if your in deep jungle being a viable option to attack, although don't stand still or let your stam get low enough for utahs to catch up, this means try not to bleed either. this strategy also applies to Troodon, if you feel you have no way to run, get to shallow water or mud to dissuade smaller pack predators - If there's multiple ceratos and one of you, back off. if you don't have over 75% hunger. back off. the cerato/carno fight has alot of factors, your hunger, presence of a body, bacteria the cerato has, and finally wether you land a charge. having the number advantage is always good, especially in carnos case. but the best thing to do if you want a cerato dead is land at least one charge and some bites. if your stamina gets below maybe half and you haven't landed a charge or caused major damage while staying in good condition yourself. run away. You CAN try and facetank the cerato and you will probably win the facetank but at a heavy damage cost, especially if the cerato landed a charge bite beforehand - Pachy's is relatively easy to hunt, they CAN parry your charges and they will hurt a bit landing the fractures, but they can't really outright kill you - Take advantage of that super acceleration to punish arrogant dinos and bowl them over with a charge, it is unlikely you can straight brawl a teno or chuff buffed cerato straight out but it IS possible certainly alot easier landing a good ambush first Diet - Go for perfect diet or two diets as a baby, spawning around the south area can give you a broad range for the AI you need to catch if you want perfect diet, at adult go for full stamina diet, everything else is absolute trash, the stam diet gets you extra run time that carno THRIVES on, although S diet is good too i guess Nesting - Carno nesting is very... Active, it requires a certain kind of placement and hunting style to start up a nest you must get sticks and heat it with sticks, this means you and your mate will be active and not sitting at the nest, nesting in deep forest is not advisable surprisingly since these areas may not have the steady stream of food necessary for you and your children, so nesting in either A: a treeline or bridge between two hotspots where you can hide a nest while hunting Or B: Smackdab In the middle of a hotspot or common area, often in a bush. where you'll need to constantly patrol and hunt in, taking your children with you is not advisable until they reach a certain size, mainly a size where they either just about match your speed or outpace you, you'll probably be bringing them boar and other AI foods, although for the hatchling phase you'll need to keep a bigger eye on them, The moment they can keep up with you is a good idea to change location by then i'm sure you will have run through your AI and any dinos that were in the area. It'd be best to take them to a somewhat quieter place but somewhere prey is prevelant, when faced with a threat bigger than two carnos can take on, try to lure the threat away or ignore it until it goes away, something like a stego will probably piss off unless it finds the nest outright, so be sure to hide it properly. babies eat solid food after a little under 11% growth Ceratosaurus - Mid Tier Carnivore

优点： - 细菌撕咬能快速叠加，只需几口就能轻易对普通恐龙造成僵直控制。 - 就其体型而言，它具有巨大的伤害潜力，一次完全蓄力的撕咬是目前恐龙单次攻击中第三高的伤害值，同时还会施加大量细菌。 - 撕咬速度极快，这只会帮助它更快地施加细菌效果。 - 在水中表现出人意料地出色。你甚至可以独自在水中对抗两只食肉龙，有时能成功。它甚至能在水中进行alt啃咬 - 【呼哧增益】 - 能吃任何东西 - 耐力持续时间很长 - 灵活性出色 缺点 - 除了呕吐控制和呼哧增益的能力外，它实际上相当脆弱，1300的重量使其在坦克般的生存能力方面远低于其他中级生物，尽管细菌啃咬很厉害，但这确实是唯一让它如此强大的原因。该死的，一只 Carno 的一次成功冲锋和大约两下啃咬就能让你的生命值下降一半以上。当然，呼哧增益帮助角鼻龙规避了这个问题 - 耐力恢复确实有点糟糕，但它对耐力的依赖也不高 - 同类相食，不要期望从同类那里得到太多善意 .'. 腱龙 - 可能具有威胁性，尤其是在数量较多时。它们的速度只比你快一点点，但会掉落不错的食物。与它们战斗时要小心。

厚头龙——曾经的强者如今落魄了

角鼻龙——如果它们比你小，那应该很容易杀死。但和你体型相当的角鼻龙则需要一定的…技巧才能对付。

S 食肉牛龙——你会经常遇到它们，你的细菌撕咬在这场战斗中会对你大有帮助

S 恐鳄——意外地容易击杀，由于你在水中的娴熟技巧，实际上可以与体型更大的恐鳄战斗。但要确保不要被其扑击。在陆地上，这些恐鳄尤其容易被杀死。我说的是那些体型较小的……

南方犹他盗龙——它们主要会在争夺食物时发生争斗。如果你感到受到犹他盗龙的威胁，待在水里或泥地里是躲避它们的好方法。猎杀它们是件麻烦事，但并非不可能，通常情况下，它们反而会成为猎杀你的一方。

S Troodon（迅猛龙）——和犹他盗龙差不多，只是体型更小，而且被击中一下就会死亡。

鹿——但是……为什么是鹿呢？我的意思是，这虽然不像给恐鳄安排青蛙食谱那么离谱，但鹿确实是个奇怪的选择。你可能会觉得野猪或者类似的动物会更合适，甚至精英鱼类也行，毕竟它在水里已经很厉害了。

// 橡树龙 - 为什么选它？就不能换个别的吗？为什么是橡树龙？！比如…随便说一个，似鸡龙不行吗？ // 剑龙 - 算是能杀死的类型，但前提是它们得把自己置于易守难攻的位置。想让它们感染细菌可不容易，而且还要看有多少角鼻龙一起围攻这头剑龙——要是细菌数量不够，可能还没把它用呕吐锁定至死，你们自己的细菌就先耗尽了。不过年轻的剑龙就另当别论了，它们是合适的猎物。

迈克尔——我是说，你水性那么好，所以我并不惊讶。

Misc - Very loud, chuffing alone carries surprisingly far - Can run while charging up its charged bite, it can't use it in water but it can use the charged bite very offensively - Pack limit of 4 members - Damage reduction while eating, is some of THE goofiest hitbox ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ i have EVER seen, therefore i will not even go indepth into it at all - Cerato smell vomit Ceratosaurus - Extended Stats - Normal bite 150 plus some bleed, alt bite 200 plus some bleed. bacteria applied is 20% with these bites, so 5 normal or alt bites to make a creature vomit at full hunger. Fully charged bites do a whopping 350 Damage. the charge to get full damage is around 4-ish seconds. the bacteria applied is double the normal bite. being around 40% bacteria. so about 3 fully charged bites should easily add vomit on a full hunger dino. cerato cannot chain vomit and has to wait out a cooldown of 25 seconds before it's prey can vomit again. the vomit sickness applies a few effects, while you vomit you cannot run or attack until your done vomiting, interestingly enough a VERY well timed alt bite will circumvent this, but it's a reaction that takes under a second. the vomit sickness disable the ability to gain diets, and if the prey eats or drinks there is a chance they vomit again. tail bites do not apply bacteria, on carno this can be all the way up to the base of the tail and it won't apply bacteria. - Lastly the chuff buff. depending on the size of the body the "chuff buff" adds damage resistance while chuffing. the size influencing how much damage resist is added. Any body weighing over 300 kilos gives a 50% damage reduction anything under is only 25%. If the body is dragged or picked up the buff won't apply. The chuff buff also resists bleed and venom. In terms of distance you can't go very far, but don't worry that you don't have the buff even if you're making the sound, crouched or not. you still gain the buff. The range for the buff isn't very far, normally only about 25 meters, giving you room to dodge carno charges and such but not much else. Stamina stats 1.1 Kilometers travelled, 1:35 Run Time. 3:15 Regen time (sitting) 7 minutes (standing) [Is it obvious that standing has the same regen time among every playable?] Carbs diet: 2:10 run time, 1.5 Kilometers travelled, better than nothin Growth times: Perfect diet: 1 hour 45 Minutes, 30% growth: 1 Hour 55 Minutes, 1 diet: 2 hours 20 minutes Sanctuary kicks you out at 34%, Bees begin stinging basically right off the bat. Dehydration/Starvation - starvation starts at 50 minutes, dehydration starts at 45 minutes Scent Range - Alright lets get this over with... coming in at a.. 750 METERS WHILE MOVING? H- How many while stationary? 1500!?!?! HOT DAMN. Strats - Lets get right into this, for your smaller guys you basically just have to make sure to land your bites, if your in a gang of ceratos these smaller preds should be no big deal. especially if the contest is for a body, if you feel threatened by say, a utah or troodon pack. there are a couple of advantages you can give yourself - Offensive Advantages: With cerato it has two distinct types of advantages, offensive and defensive. both its core abilities are an offensive and defensive ability. its main offensive advantages being its bacteria, allowing it through repeated attack to gain a better foothold in a fight, and of course the offensive advantage of ambushing. which every dinosaur can do i don't need to explain that one Defensive Advantages: Environment, which yeah that's something every dino can use. but what we're here for is chuff buff. the chuff buff is the thing that tips the scale from an even fight to in your favor. sure you can kill a carno if you have the bacteria. but the carno can just as easily kill you if he gets at least one nice charge off. with chuff buff you fill your role of corpse bully to the fullest. contesting a pissed off and hungry cerato is more often than not, not worth the risk. - For bigger midtiers that you share your home with, the carno and teno will be our prime examples. battle with a cerato is a war of attrition, rarely does the cerato play offensive as most of the time you will get ROCKED by a carno. with chuffbuff however you'd be surprised how much stronger you get. even something as small as an omni will boost you to max power turning you into a beast. The only real way you're killing carnos is in territorial body fights and ambushing the carnos, or the carno is dumb as ♥♥♥♥ pick your choice - in tenos case it may be the opposite. where your chasing them. if your teno is especially conservative with his stamina costing attacks it is ill advised to fight them. at least alone. if your teno is very aggressive and gladly misses tail slams and kicks they are an ideal target, land a few charged bites or even normal bites without posing too much risk to yourself. make sure to count your bites, and avoid biting the tail unless going purely for damage once the prey starts vomiting its a relatively easy fight from there, since you can wait out the teno far easier on the cooldown. from there. especially if your in a group of ceratos. just watch the range of the tail - fighting other ceratos is a contest of who can bite more. thats about it. You CAN use the charged bite to complicate the fight a little and try and increase your chances to do more damage than your opponent, but most cerato v cerato fights are just a brawl - bigger dinos you prioritize getting bites in, often in a gang of ceratos. some dinos are harder than others of course and i don't recommend fighting such large dinos but it IS possible Diet - perfect diet blah blah blah... Now, we have about two playstyles (one i prefer more but eh) one is a chaser based cerato going for carbs diet, this build is OK but it's not the best. THE OTHER build is the Full Health Regen. The TRIPLE S. Cerato has a low health anyways, getting this diet helps you keep your health high, and considering chuff buffs damage reduction, having a faster regen to use while taking LESS damage in fights is pretty darn good. Nesting - The ceratosaurus makes it nest out of sticks and to put it aptly. is very aggressive, at least it's good when it is. contrary to whats expected keeping bodies around your nest makes it more defendable rather than easy to find, of course keep the nest hidden visually but littering bodies around not only for that good ol chuff buff but also to feed your kids is pretty great, although its not necessarily imperative to your survival and is probably not best to do if your say, a single parent. once babies get big enough they can accommodate you on bullying people off bodies. how sweet babies eat solid food at 12% growth Deinosuchus - Apex Carnivore

优点：一种半水生的野兽，由肌肉和骨骼构成，极其耐打，攻击力强，往往在猎物察觉时为时已晚。 - 除了被剑龙或同类杀死外，几乎不可能被其他生物击杀，而面对剑龙时，只需进入更深的水域就能完全避开它们。 - 拥有庞大的生命值和血量。 - 可以通过突进技能抓取恐龙，任何体重在4吨及以下的生物都能被抓住。突进会持续消耗耐力，可用于将其他恐龙淹死。在河流中，最好抓住猎物后要么将其淹死，要么带到更深的水域后松开再咬死，偶尔需要重新抓住猎物将其带回深水区。目前似乎突进技能会对被抓住的恐鳄造成持续伤害，但这一点还需进一步测试才能确认。 - 能够接触并掌控一种重要资源——水。重爪龙掌控着水域中的一切，它能轻易利用水来困住、捕捉甚至阻挡陆生恐龙。 - 凭借无穷的力量，只要附近没有剑龙，水边的任何猎物都唾手可得。犹他盗龙在河边捕获了一头牛龙？尽管走上前去把尸体抢过来，它们又能怎样？扑击吗？或许它们会尝试用每口65点的伤害来攻击你8000点的生命值？ - 由于采用伏击狩猎的方式，它几乎不需要频繁进食，主要依靠运气和在常有人经过的河流中进行战略性埋伏。 - 它的转身相当灵活，虽然可能会被躲开，但如果有生物试图在陆地上绕到你身后，这个能力就很有用了。它的特殊咬击是一个强大的工具，凭借极远的攻击范围能出其不意地击中目标。 - 它几乎什么都能吃，大多数可玩恐龙都在它的食谱上。你甚至可以通过啃骨头来获取所有饮食选项。 ——骨折？什么是骨折？缺点 - 作为顶级掠食者，成长可能需要较长时间 - 有点像个笑话，许多人可以无忧无虑地在浅水区安全点喝水，而恐龙真正偶然遇到你的情况其实很少见。虽然如果你对热点区域、看似安全但可以突袭的区域以及各种交叉区域有游戏知识，伏击确实是一种有效的策略 - 同类相食，所以在水中你不一定安全。如果你需要容易获得的食物，这也可能成为优点，但这会让你容易受到更大鳄鱼的攻击 - 显然开发者对鳄鱼的理解是一种巨大的陆生鱼类，无法在水外生存5分钟 - 地图非常大，有很多河流。现实中鳄鱼之所以如此成功，是因为有很多动物可以伏击，即使有100名玩家在线，除非你在热点区域，否则玩家在你的位置饮水的可能性几乎为零，这存在另一个问题。玩家在不同生命间会携带知识。所以一旦他们知道恐鳄存在，就会记住并学会避开水域。现实中的动物除非遇到过鳄鱼，比如看到同伴被鳄鱼吃掉或看到鳄鱼进入水中，否则根本不知道鳄鱼是什么。而所有人在死亡后都能携带知识这点确实很酷，但对于你扮演依赖于不被发现的恐龙来说并不好。 哦对了，它们还很容易受到坠落伤害，毕竟它们重达8吨左右，这并不奇怪，在陆地上时要小心。 腱龙——容易捕获的猎物，一旦你的体重至少达到3.2吨，就能轻松对它们使用突袭。

厚头龙 - 容易的猎物，你可以用1000公斤的体重猛冲它们，这甚至还不到20%的成长就能干掉一只厚头龙

角鼻龙——成群时可能具有威胁，但仅限于在陆地上。如果你愿意，可以从食腐动物那里抢夺尸体。

S Troodon - 是的，在巨型鳄鱼的食谱中加入关于高棘龙体型的内容是合理的，我同意。

南方巨兽龙——更容易捕获的猎物……如果你能追上它的话。如果你深入内陆，它们成群出现时可能会很危险，但即使在河边，你也应该是安全的。当你的体重达到3.6吨或以上时，就可以对其使用扑击技能。

S Rat——在鳄鱼面前实在是可怜的恐龙，你甚至不必在陆地上担心它们，你可以一击秒杀它们，而且它们的主要攻击会因自身较高的流血抗性和血池而变得无效。

S恐鳄，作为你的主要食物来源之一，不建议在公平条件下战斗，也不建议独自对抗两只成年个体。要率先发起攻击，尤其要优先攻击受伤的鳄鱼。

S Frog——开发者们，这是某种玩笑吗？在开玩笑吗？接下来是不是要让棱齿龙以霸王龙为食了？

【剑龙】——在我们发布更新5的世界中，它们已成为近乎无法杀死的野兽，只有成群的鳄鱼或同类相残才能将其击杀。如果你是 solo 玩家，就别白费力气了；如果有两个人，或许——只是或许——才有机会成功击杀。

精英鱼——几乎填不饱肚子，但考虑到你的饥饿值消耗较慢，它们仍然值得收集。

似鸡龙 - 相对容易捕猎，提供的食物可能不多，但不像迅猛龙那么差。

北票龙——鸭子，你会和这些小家伙共享栖息地，所以不用害怕吃掉一两只。它们提供的食物不多，但获取起来也不费力，除非你特意去追逐它们。

Deinosuchus - Extended Misc : Growing these isn't that bad if you keep to yourself and live off the elite fish and whatever else you find - You can only detect animals on the surface of the water, nothing swimming beneath it, other deinos and otherwise Might add more here, tbh not much to say that wasn't mentioned in pros and cons and will be mentioned in the stats and strats - You cannot run on land with a lunged dino. goodbye landsnatcher build - Pack limit of 2 members - You can eat schooling fish for around 6% with no diet. The Stats : 500 damage for a normal bite, and surprisingly the same amount of damage for an alt bite, rendering it only usefull for its range. Lunge does 350 damage. - 5% per lunge to initiate, drains stamina over time if the grab is successful, The preyw ill drain out of stamina in 20 seconds, you run out after 30. interestingly enough the stamina costs change based on whether your in land or in water, the alt bite cost doubles to 10% on stam, and initiating a lunge TRIPLES all the way to 15%. Something else to note is that deinosuchus has a great amount more lunge range from water than on land, so don't be afraid to activate your lunge from water a little early Stamina stats - (Land) Distance ran? a solid 75 meters, truly astonishing, 15 second run time... with 4:15 to fully regen stamina Stam diet - 100 meters ran, 20 second run time, 1:25 Regen time Swimming - Deino can swim on the surface a solid 450 meters before running out of stamina, 1 minute swim time, And 5 minutes to regen stam to full just by floating around, at zero stam you will sink till you either hit the bottom or gain enough stam to swim back up, deino swims at 27 kph Stam diet - Pretty much the same value other than regen time being 4 minutes Underwater - Deino can swim 500 meters underwater before running out of stam, 1 minute swim time, and 5 minute regen, Croc swims exactly 30 kph when underwater Deinosuchus -Extended (Extended) Growth Times - Perfect diet, 30% growth takes 5 hours and 10 minutes, 5% growth takes Sanctuaries - Uh... you want to go in one? Well No. Bees will sting you no matter WHAT growth you are. Dehydration/Starvation/Oxygen, Deino dehydrates after 10 minutes (on land) Starvation occurs after 1 hour and 30 minutes , you can remain underwater for 10 minutes until you run out Scent Range - 200 Meters moving, and a 400 meter range stationary. in the water while moving or being stationary, scent range extends to 400 meters The Strats : So... in all my playing as deino, the best way to play deino is entirely different from the way the isle is normally played. gameplay slows down, becomes more logical, slow paced, and methodical. not in the way stego is though where your a lumbering giant who slowly lumbers from place to place smiting anyone who dares oppose you, no. Deinos strats are focused on other players, What do i mean? ( i know this sounds cryptic as hell but its not that complicated i promise) Rather than hunting like a carno would, where your focused on the combat part, you need to focus on what your prey does OUTSIDE of combat, at what spots do players like to drink most? and not just hotspots, areas that SEEM safe but you can lunge to grab, spots people may drink before they get to a big hotspot like inbetween northwest and center. The best spots to remain hidden but also get as close to prey as possible before it notices you, camping the major crossings, Deino gameplay centers what you do, around what others are doing. now there are some combat encounters which we'll get to. but general deino "combat" is just being logical about how other players act to catch them best in an ambush. which will always be constantly changing, so make sure to change with the players. Also prioritize your targets, depending on your growth certain dinos will fill you up nicely, some won't. if your a juvi croc just about anything you can lunge is good food, at adult, you may serve to gain more from letting drinking juvis or even dinos like beipi and troodon live. If these smaller dinos drink safely, well any bigger more meaty prey that might be watching may think its perfectly safe, see where this is going? Now onto actual combat encounters, starting with stegos because why not, if your solo don't bother, but if you have a pair or more than a pair follow this simple strategy, if theres more than one stego also don't bother.Just mob the stego, lunge doesn't even stun anymore so if your in pairs the best thing you can is mob it by the water. going for headshots is absolutely important, as it doubles your damage from 500 to 1000. if the stego runs inland. DO NOT FOLLOW. they will outclass you on land, unless your rather uninjured and have multiple friends, i do not recommend chasing stegos inland, as they will just outrun you to headshot you with tail swings - when it comes to fighting other crocs, the alt bite doesn't do any amount more than normal bite so maybe try and "ride" around your opponent? keep behind them or even under them to confuse them as most people are used to straight facetank fights. don't be afraid to run away, Don't try to lunge them - Something else you can do is lead, them, act like your running away only to spin around with an alt bite and headshot them, you can even try and bait them to lunge you, as people will use lunge to catch up to other crocs, let them lunge you which will stun them longer than it stuns you, then spin around to get some bites in. -When raiding on land, be it stealing corpses or attacking a nest too close to shore, keep your stamina at least above a certain level, and don't stray far from the water. you can tank plenty of hits from land dinos that aren't stegosaurus but try to get kills why they're trying to defend their kill. Such as taking out utahs or carnos as you take the corpse back to water Diet - Try to get perfect diet in your younger growth,as a little freshspawn boi you won't be able to outrun or outswim any adult crocs, so getting to the growth you can outspeed adult crocs on land as fast as possible is very important, also make sure to eat bones, bones fill all three of your diet slots regardless of what diet you have, if you have no slots filled or slots unfilled it will be filled with a diet you don't have, for example, You have one slot with .'.? bones will fill up both the empty slots with S and //. once your at an adult stage you should go for straight S health regen. no questions asked Nesting: Nesting as deino is ENTIRELY reliant on where you place your nest to begin with, small islands in rivers or larger bodies of water like swamp are perfect to nest on, as any crocs coming up you can detect with water sense, and stegos won't be able to reach the nest without taking heavy damage while swimming, and swimming there and back will often mean death, especially if you block them from swimming past with your own body. but if an island location is not available, try to nest within lunging range of whatever water source you intend to nest beside. this will allow you to defend your nest by dragging attackers to water to kill. or just fight on land, although stegos you may have to yield to with this strategy,now to build the actual nest your going to need sticks. which are quite troublesome to get and collect, before you lay your eggs, i cannot recommend enough to grab extra sticks, the moment you lay your eggs you must cover them to keep them warm, and keep adding sticks to keep them warm, which for deino is pain due to your slow ass speed, You solely devote yourself to heating that nest, no real time for water, food, nothing. Just getting those eggs warm, deinos nest in clutches of 6, once they hatch they eat solid food so no need to watch them too closely, just get them a good elite fish to eat or something similar. The best way to protect your babies is to bottleneck them in a spot you can protect, once the eggs hatch you don't need to watch the nest and can start switching locations, some of the best spots are the bottom (or top) of waterfalls or end of rivers, as you can place yourself between any adult crocs travelling along a river and your babies, if your mate is still with you fighting a solo adult should be an easy kill, Once your babies hit a certain age they will get kicked out of the group, but you can continue raising them if you want. once they hit around 50% they should be entirely self sufficient. Dryosaurus - Small Tier Herbivore

优点： - 非常灵活的恐龙，拥有几乎无与伦比的敏捷性，甚至有专门用于躲避攻击的特殊能力。 - 相对较高的跳跃高度使它们能够到达更高的区域，以躲避像牛龙这样的捕食者。 - 成长时间非常快，如果饮食完美，只需约30分钟。 - 出色的耐力值加上相当不错的耐力恢复速度，使其拥有超强的续航能力。 - 适合攻击幼崽，其惊人的敏捷性使得在你反复进出攻击时很难被击中，只需适应它那不太稳定的判定范围。 - 相当耐用，可以承受一些攻击，但要小心牛龙，除非它们击中尾部，否则会一击杀死你，若击中尾部则可能存活。 - 受到许多玩家的喜爱，老实说，被厚头龙或角鼻龙杀死的几率相当低，因为似鸟龙本身相当稀有。它们看起来很不错。就好比你看到了独角兽，你会杀了它吗？还是别回答了—— - 愈合骨折的速度相当快，几乎达到了高棘龙的水平 - 相比基础跳跃高度，它们能从相当高的地方坠落，但要注意高空坠落，你并非对坠落伤害免疫 缺点 - 扑击是直接的压制，只要犹他盗龙还有一半耐力条，扑到你身上，你很可能在站起来之前就死了，更别说因流血而倒下了 - 似鸟龙啄击时的判定框很奇怪，你的咬击范围差不多在身前一个头的长度，一定要提前一点咬才能命中 - 没有地穴？- 你将过着非常孤独的生活，除非你能找到一个朋友一起玩Dryo，否则你可能一辈子都遇不到另一个Dryo。 - 每一个能抓住你的食肉动物都有理由这么做，作为一种难以获取的食物，这会增加它们的特殊动机。 - 在群体中完全没用，它们没有战斗能力。如果你用“它们可以成为优秀的侦察兵”作为借口，那还不如选择厚头龙作为侦察兵，因为厚头龙不仅能自卫，而且速度只慢大约2公里。 - 红醋栗——我不知道这是什么，它们看起来像蔓越莓，是以前旧版本里的灌木食物。

刺角瓜 - 容易找到的带刺甜瓜，你甚至可以直接采摘它们

野生马铃薯根——所以……你既吃根也吃藤，但出于某种原因，只有特定的一些你可以挖出来吃根，而另一些你只能吃藤……行吧……

S Sumac - 一种生长在沼泽地区的怀旧红色开花植物

S 鸡油菌蘑菇 - 蘑菇，可惜不再有迷醉的树妖了

野生土豆藤——所以，你吃的是藤蔓本身而不是土豆……行吧

【Russula - 更多蘑菇，Dryo 彩色版】

迁徙区域 - 沼泽、三角洲、东北平原 其他 - 目前感觉一般，在很多方面都没什么特别之处。闪避技能会朝着你注视的方向发动，这就是其他部分值得注意的全部内容 - 群体上限为10名成员 - 凶暴的蜜蜂 :( - 携带食物时无法闪避 战斗属性 - 咬合力和生命值很明显，直接查看角色界面即可。剩下的就是耐力消耗和特殊攻击。特殊攻击的伤害相同，【踢击除外，其伤害约为45点】，其他所有特殊攻击均为20点伤害。跳跃消耗6%耐力，特殊攻击无论种类均消耗2%耐力。闪避的计量方式比较特殊，闪避次数以2次为一组，无论是连续使用还是分开使用，最多只能积累2次闪避次数，直到重新恢复。恢复1次闪避次数大约需要10秒，且恢复速度不受站立或坐下状态影响。 耐力属性：耐力条满值时，你可以奔跑约2.5公里，持续时间为3分20秒。耐力恢复时间：坐下时约2分钟，站立时约5分钟。 碳水饮食：你可以奔跑约3.25公里，持续时间为4分25秒。 生长时间：完美饮食需要30分钟，30%生长度需要35分钟，单一饮食需要45分钟。 庇护所的效果在生长度达到约69%时结束，蜜蜂会在你基本完全成年后开始攻击，在那之前蜜蜂不会理会你。脱水/饥饿 - 脱水45分钟，饥饿30分钟 气味范围 - 350米 玩法策略 - 迅猛龙可能被视为弱者，但实际上当你想要猎杀幼龙时，它是一名真正的战士。每一次攻击都必须尽早使用，否则你肯定会失手。它的敏捷性是主要优势，所以确保不仅用它来躲避攻击，还要用它来迷惑对手并进行反击。不要尝试正面硬扛，那样只会给你带来灾难。你或许能正面硬扛无齿翼龙，但任何聪明的无齿翼龙都会从空中攻击你。面对其他任何恐龙，只需利用你的速度和敏捷性来躲避。尽量待在茂密的森林中以保持隐蔽。为了生存，尽量保持警惕。遇到移动的捕食者？逃跑。听到能识别为捕食者或完全无法识别的声音？往另一个方向跑。快跑。这样你就能多活一天。 筑巢 - 作为Dryo筑巢和Hypsi（棱齿龙）的筑巢方式差别不大，最好把巢穴放在隐蔽的地方，可以是高处、狭小的空间，或者茂密的树叶中。Dryo的成长时间较短，筑巢会更容易，但比Hypsi的筑巢时间稍长一些。筑巢时至少要靠近两种食物来源，以便幼崽能轻松成长，同时也能有更多筑巢地点的选择。筑巢不需要树枝，像大多数草食动物一样，直接在原地筑巢即可。每窝产卵8枚，需要坐在蛋上孵化。幼崽在成长到29%后开始吃固体食物。 饮食 - 选择全碳水化合物饮食，毕竟Dryo（橡树龙）的优势就在于奔跑。 Hypsilophodon（棱齿龙） - 小型草食动物

优点： - 出色的灵活性和娇小的体型使其能够快速移动并迅速逃脱 - 使用一次完全充能的跳跃后，无论跑步还是静止状态下都能恢复耐力 - 就其体型而言，海波龙拥有极高的跳跃高度，在当前角色中名列前茅，使其能够爬上高高的岩石和悬崖以确保安全 - 吐息能力易于使用但难以精通，是游戏中目前唯一的远程攻击手段如果你成功吐出唾液，可暂时致盲对手，作为辅助手段效果最佳 - 几乎能在任何地方生存，对于海波龙来说，饮食除了避免不良饮食外几乎毫无用处，在饮食方面投入资源基本是浪费 - 出生即为成年体，无需成长时间（除非是被孵化的） - 能快速治愈骨折 缺点 - 生命值和流血值极低，堪称玻璃体质，属于高风险高回报的生存方式 - 氧气值极差，完全不建议游泳，有时游泳时氧气会持续减少，而且虽然看起来游得更快，但这只是相对于体型而言的错觉大多数掠食者都能直接下水追你，因为对你来说很深的水域，对它们而言浅多了 - 可怜的攻击力让它们在战斗中毫无用处，唯一的战斗用途就是它们的吐口水能力。不过作为猎物恐龙玩起来还是挺有趣的 - 从略高于你最大跳跃高度的地方掉落可能会摔断腿 - 速度有点慢，不过好在你体型小且灵活，倒也不算太糟，但直线奔跑绝对是被各种东西杀死的好方法 - 角瓜 - 可以在沼泽中找到的小型多刺瓜类

无法识别或无法翻译，已删除。

芒果——经典的常见海岸植物

无法翻译的内容，已删除。

香蕉 - 香蕉片

S Sumac - 一种生长在沼泽地区的开花植物

S 鸡油菌蘑菇 - 一种类似圣所蘑菇但并非红色的蘑菇，常见于沼泽地带

S 掌状红皮藻 - 红海岸卷心菜

S 火weed - 海岸粉花

S 蕨菜 - 一种基于丛林的蕨类植物

S 延龄草 - 生长在丛林中的鲜艳红花

红菇属 - 蓝绿色、沼泽栖居的蘑菇，不过在海岸边也能找到它们。

木瓜 - 一种不常见的丛林植物，能结出有趣的果实

【巴西坚果】- 高大的开花树木可能会掉落一些可食用的坚果，常见于丛林中。

迁徙区域 - 沼泽、沼泽丛林、东海岸 属性 - 查看角色界面即可了解，需要详细说明的只有跳跃和蓄力跳跃。我们还会测量每次喷吐消耗的食物量，普通跳跃通常消耗约2%的耐力，由于海波西跳跃机制的随机性，其消耗并不固定，但完全蓄力跳跃始终消耗25%的耐力。关于完全蓄力跳跃，另一个需要注意的是，跳跃后耐力恢复速度会加快，即使在小跑时也是如此。因此，虽然跳跃消耗25%的耐力，但你会恢复约15%损失的耐力。一次食物喷吐消耗10%的食物值 耐力属性 - 海波西（Hypsi）在耐力值满的情况下可以覆盖的距离非常可观，达到2.35公里，奔跑时间约3分35秒，恢复时间为1分45秒（坐姿）、5分钟（站姿） 碳水饮食——数值会变得更大，距离值达到惊人的3.1公里，奔跑时间约4分45秒，恢复时间不变 饥饿/脱水——脱水30分钟，饥饿45分钟 气味范围——350米 生长时间——棱齿龙出生即为成年，因此我们只测量幼崽的生长时间 棱齿龙——延长 策略——只要有足够敏锐的观察力和一些常识，这是一种适合新手的恐龙。如果你利用环境优势，没有多少捕食者能有效捕捉到你。远离开阔平原，利用你的敏捷性躲避攻击，牛龙的转向能力不足以有效抓住你。犹他盗龙的碰撞体积更小，便于躲避和迂回。不过一定要避开野猪鳄。 如果小型双脊龙抓住你但没有一击杀死你，那你就要准备好迎接死亡了。黄昏鸟的氧气值非常糟糕，你会在几秒内溺水。你唯一真正的捕食者是翼龙，所以一定要留意天空，它们如果击中你的身体或头部就能一击杀死你。茂密的掩护物足以躲避它们，但如果你要筑巢，一定要把巢建在翼龙难以进入的地方，比如茂密的丛林、隐蔽的洞穴，或者干脆藏在灌木丛里。 杂项 - 吐口水技能是有伤害的！虽然伤害不高，和你造成的2点咬伤伤害差不多，但终究是有伤害的（对狙击萌新很有用） - 群体上限为10名成员 - 孵化后的蜥面龙幼崽一旦能够进食固体食物，就无需前往保护区。事实上，蜜蜂不仅会攻击成年蜥面龙，还会攻击任何年龄段能够进食固体食物的蜥面龙 - 雄性蜥面龙的眉毛和尾羽比雌性长得多 关于筑巢 - 作为蜥面龙筑巢时，由于你是体型小且非常脆弱的“鸡”，无法保护幼崽，因此你应该始终在难以到达或非常隐蔽的地方筑巢，狭小的爬行空间或茂密的 foliage 应该可以。蜥面龙幼崽成长迅速，所以你的巢穴不像剑龙巢穴那样是沉重的负担，因此不需要在巢穴上投入太多心思。如果捕食者靠近你的巢穴且你感觉受到威胁，可以尝试通过鸣叫将它们引向远离巢穴的方向（注意不要让自己陷入极大危险中）。筑巢地点至少要有一种食物来源。厚头龙筑巢需要树枝，其巢穴非常独特，是一个大型圆顶结构，有一个主入口，你可以在里面产卵。厚头龙一次产卵6枚，幼崽在成长进度达到32%后开始食用固体食物。厚头龙似乎无法使用管理巢穴功能。 饮食方面，选择全碳水化合物。厚头龙的生命值恢复机制仍基于此，作为猎物，选择能延长奔跑时间的食物即可。 厚头龙——小型植食性恐龙

优点 - 目前唯一能造成骨折的恐龙，可造成身体、头部和腿部骨折。每个都有其独特的减益效果 - 出色的防御/进攻能力，能够使用副攻击来防御犹他盗龙，并通过冲锋技能切换至进攻模式 - 不错的跳跃高度使其能够通过岩石进行机动，以躲避最大的威胁——食肉牛龙 - 耐力值相当不错，恢复速度中等，但奔跑时耐力消耗很快，搭配耐力饮食就能轻松应对 - 头槌可以蓄力以造成更多伤害和骨折伤害 - 特殊攻击消耗耐力很少，使用起来相当轻松 缺点：对坠落伤害的抗性很差，从略高于自身跳跃高度的地方落下就可能导致腿部骨折，而厚头龙的腿部骨折是极其致命的，会让你甚至失去战斗能力 - 食肉牛龙的冲锋命中了？你大概率已经死亡，或许还剩一丝生命值苟延残喘。你的生命值只比犹他盗龙多50点左右，所以和它一样脆弱。 - 很多生物都比你快得多，单是食肉牛龙就比你快10多公里/小时，而你只比腱龙快一点点。 - 流血会迅速累积，所以一定要注意。不过厚头龙的流血抗性得到了不错的 buff，能够抵抗犹他盗龙造成的流血。 - 冲锋没命中？那你很可能会在冷却期间被攻击。 - 幼年期非常虚弱，和犹他盗龙类似。 【斑驳橙色】——仍然不确定“variegated”是什么意思，但显然它一定有某种含义。总之，这种橙色生物会在平原生物群系刷新。

椰子 - 只有被厚头龙敲开，或从椰子树上掉落时已裂开才能食用。椰子树看起来和棕榈树很像，只需寻找椰子或通过气味来辨认。生成于沿海迁徙区域。

芒果 - 与椰子一起在海岸边很容易找到

香蕉 - 在高地丛林/平原迁徙区发现了一些，成小簇生长，嗯……就是香蕉，这还用说。

菠萝蜜——高大的树木，结有巨大的圆形果实，很有趣。

S 掌状红皮藻：一种生长在沿海迁徙地带的小型植物，很难被发现，但因其形似红色卷心菜而易于识别。

S 火草 - 一种在沿海地区发现的粉ish色花朵

S Agave——真是每天都能学到新东西。“龙舌兰简直就是更接地气的芦荟，你可以用它来酿造龙舌兰酒，生长在亚利桑那州这样的地方——”The_EGC

S 菊芋花 - 你可以直接食用花朵本身，无需像其他恐龙那样挖掘。

S 蕨菜 - 一种小型蕨类植物，常见于丛林中，例如高地丛林/平原和沿海丛林迁徙区。

S 延龄草——一种在丛林中发现的鲜红色花朵，这些植物与《埃夫里玛》早期只有特诺和犹他龙时的植物相同。

红菇属 - 一种小型蓝绿色蘑菇，可在海岸边发现

// 腰果树 - 一种会掉落腰果的树状植物 // 南瓜 - 生成于平原生物群系，体型相当大的圆形橙色植物——拜托，你肯定知道南瓜是什么

// 木瓜 - 神秘木瓜

【巴西坚果】- 丛林地区的高大开花树会掉落可食用的坚果

Migration Zones - Coasts, Big Island Pond, Coastal Jungle, Plains River, Ocean Delta, Misc - Not a very good swimmer, don't try it, its not as bad as trying to swim as a dino like carno or stego but i wouldn't advise swimming unless its to cross a river - What are new pachy calls? they're kinda garbage ngl, legacy pachy sounded better and legacy pachy was just a whole ass horse - really good with buds, pachy is pretty viable solo but with friends you may be able to fracture a carno efficiently and flee, or try and take it down - Can achieve a "crown" of sorts, if you headbutt stuff enough blood begins to build up on your dome, as a show of how many you've murdered. Its gets washed off when you swim though - Take less damage on their heads, a 25% decrease in damage, which for higher damages like carno bites can make a big difference - Has a noise for charging up its headbutt, if your running its barely audible, honestly doesn't really affect anything - Pack limit is 8 members Pachycephalosaurus -Extended Combat Stats : Base bite damage: 30, Alt swing damage: 75 + Knockdown on utah and smaller, also stuns any dino below 1 ton, headbutting without charging does somewhere around 75 damage + stun on pachy and around dryo sizes its a knockdown, plus fracture damage, Fully charged headbutts deal around 125 damage. For SOME reason the devs removed the stun on fracture they had in hordetesting, at least you can parry carno charges. The fully charges headbutt will knockdown dilo, and doesn't stun anything higher than 750 kilos, ONLY knocks down -Pachy deals no bleed damage but DOES deal fracture damage, fracture damage is not measurable in a number, but you can basically go by one fully charged headbutt will break a part of a carno, utah or pachy, but teno's and ceras can tank two before getting a fracture (most of the time) -Normal bite uses no stamina, The headswing attack uses 2% stamina, The tap charge/coconut smash uses 2% and a full charged headbutt uses 3% a mere 1% increase over non charged headbutt, jump uses 6% Stamina Stats - 2.3 Kilometers meters of distance, with a run time of 3:20, and a regen time of 2:10 (Sitting) and 5 minutes (Standing) Carbs diet - 3 Kilometers of distance, with a run time of 4:25, And a regen time of the same times Growth Times: Perfect diet, 1 Hour. 30% growth 1 Hour 10 minutes, 1 diet 1 hour, 25 minutes Sanctuary ends at 65%, The bees begin stinging at 68% Dehydration/Starvation - dehydration starts at 45 minutes, starvation same time of 45 minutes Scent Range - 250 meters Strats : As a herbivore you goal is not to actively find fights but avoid them, yes i know this is the "combat" section of the guide but its also meant to help you survive - Avoid the open areas, unless in large groups these areas can be quite deadly, if a migration zone sends you to these kinds of areas, try to lurk around the back of them , or close enough to the treeline you can dip if an emergency arises - When faced with an opponent, you will have to employ different strategies, pachy is a good mixup dino, being able to swap between offensive and defensive as it pleases, for example if your facing alot of smaller opponents, like utah's, play defensively while occassionally mixing up to catch utahs off guard, don't focus on charging them, charge them once they're knocked down from an alt attack. when facing larger carnivores like carno, you may take on a more offensive approach to land at least a fracture so you can make a hasty getaway, of course watch out for those insanely speedy instant charges, you CAN parry them at least. Dilo is a strange case of both. as the dilo is strong enough to facetank you, but also able to be knocked down with a full charged ram, and stunned with the swing. so you have to take a mix of offensive to catch them with the charge (just don't waste your charges) But you can't wail on them once they are down, because they can get up and facetank, so you have to gain distance and play defense until you can stun them again, which isn't too long maybe 4-5 seconds - Body fractures drain stamina, i think its twice as much. leg fractures slow opponents down, not as slow as legacy legbreak but definitely a significant speed reduction, and head fractures cloud your vision, which in dense forest can be surprisingly a great hinderance. use these to your advantage - Keep the location of any mud pools in your mind, utah bleed can hurt quite a bit if they get good bleed on you, you can also use your alt swing in the mud so although not useful against carno's its great to use against utah's - Have buddies, pachy with friends is WAY stronger than pachy solo, like substantially so - Pachy can keep a fully charged headbutt charged up after skidding, use this to your advantage, as this is VERY strong - Pachy is still a tad nerfed. it WAS good in hordetesting, but for some reason they removed stun on fracture, oh ♥♥♥♥♥♥ well, fracture and run away, no other choice Nesting - Nesting as pachy is straightforward, make a mound, lay your eggs. keep em heated, the babies eat solid food at around 22%, simple, the difference here is how you protect your nest, stego and teno can hold their nests like its a game of capture the point. pachy is fragile and thrives on movement against bigger targets, most pachy nesting boils down to hiding nests in safe spots, areas carnos can't get to or areas a nest may have trouble being found, your main defense is a great offense, patrol your nesting area for threats, and attack vigorously when you find one, keep fights as far away from the nest as possible don't even let them know it exists. You can fight back, the nest can't, dinos like utah you can be a little more defensive but in the case of carnos you may as well try and fracture them once and run away, you can't be on the offensive with them, you can only hit and run. attempting a sustained fight is not recommended Diet - Go for sanctuary mushrooms (perfect diet for juvi) and then once you hit adult you have about two good options, you can invest in a full Carbs diet, to run extra run long in emergencies but with no stamina regen increase. Or you can invest in full health regen diet, as pachy's small health pool makes certain fights a little rough where you might need a faster regen for health. diets such as bleed resist or regen are very meh and only really good for bleeder predators like utah, which can be dealt with in other ways Tenontosaurus - Midtier Herbivore

（我知道角色界面没有列出所有食性，但相信我，特诺龙的食性非常多） 优点： - 是一种用途广泛的恐龙，相当耐寒且强壮 - 能轻松造成流血和眩晕效果 - 对于其体型而言，坠落伤害处理得相当不错，大约比自身高三倍头部高度，类似牛龙，不过特诺龙体型稍小，所以高度不如牛龙 - 骨折抗性出色，能承受多次冲击才会骨折，包括坠落，你可以从足以造成伤害的高度坠落但不会腿部骨折，但从特别高的地方坠落会既受伤又腿部骨折 - 对流血有很强的抵抗力，并且生命值较高 - 拥有出色的小跑速度和 sprinting speed，能轻松长距离移动再加上耐力消耗较低的特性，它们确实能长途跋涉 - 攻击力足以应对其主要捕食者 - 泥浆非常有用，面对多只食肉牛龙/角鼻龙时，试图用泥浆对抗它们可能会丧命，但对付单只时你应该能赢。你可以在泥浆中使用甩尾攻击，但不能使用踢击，所以或许可以待在泥浆边缘，以便快速跳出并发动踢击。面对犹他盗龙/伤齿龙时，它们对你无可奈何，你也可以在泥浆中使用特殊爪击 缺点 - 中等的成长时间使它们在幼年期容易成为猎物，如果无法击晕成年食肉牛龙，就会毫无还手之力 - 甩尾和踢击等特殊攻击会消耗大量耐力，对于这种恐龙来说，耐力管理是必须的。- 长尾的判定范围使其相当容易命中，这一点仅在对抗角鼻龙和食肉牛龙这类可能试图撕咬你尾部末端来累积伤害的恐龙时才有影响，但算不上大缺点。 - 杂项 - 特诺龙会跳？怎么可能？它重达1600公斤（约3500磅），怎么跳得起来？ - 特诺龙也模糊了小型和中型生物的界限，就其体重而言它相当强壮，但同时我不会说它达到了迪亚波洛龙或副栉龙那样的强度水平。 - 根据年龄不同，它的3号和4号叫声有不同的动画，细节很棒。 - 群体上限为8名成员。 - 山灰 - 一种在高地容易找到的植物。

点点点 芒果——有趣的红色水果

椰子——特诺到底是怎么弄到这些的？这家伙连椰子都打不开啊

菠萝蜜树 - 一种生长在丛林中、结出有趣果实的树

红醋栗——一种生长在河流三角洲的植物，古老的遗留灌木

点点香蕉——你把橙子和香蕉押韵成了“波拿拿”

杂色橙花 - 在东北平原发现了一些

金盏花 - 呵呵，小花 S萝卜花 - 未挖出的萝卜部分，常见于高地 S柳兰 - 一种粉色开花植物，生长在高地 S掌状红皮藻 - 红球甘蓝 S野土豆根 - 土豆 S龙舌兰 - 平原生长的芦荟仿制品S Trillium - 说实话，没什么好说的了 S Fiddlehead - Teno有太多饮食选择了，简直不真实 S Sunchoke Flowers - 是花不是根。好吃好吃 // Radish Root - 萝卜植株真正的萝卜部分，也能在高地找到，外观和萝卜花完全一样，只能通过气味来识别 // Wild Potato Vine - 不是土豆//腰果 - 坚果，哇啊啊啊 //南瓜 - 平原上的橙色球体 //木瓜 - 木瓜，哇啊啊啊 //巴西坚果 - 坚果，嘿嘿嘿 //红菇 - 沿海蘑菇——为什么天野有这么多饮食，哇啊啊啊 迁徙区域 - 高地、河原、河口三角洲、东北平原。海岸丛林，东北海岸，岩石海岸 【属性】- 普通撕咬造成35点伤害，特殊爪击造成125点伤害并附带流血效果，踢击造成275点伤害并附带流血效果，可击倒体型不超过厚头龙的恐龙，击晕体型不超过 Carno 的恐龙。尾部猛击造成150点伤害，无流血效果，似乎能击倒生命值约1500点以下的恐龙，例如可击倒角鼻龙但无法击倒 Teno，推测阈值为1500点 - 普通跳跃消耗约6%耐力（跳跃消耗呈现一定规律），特殊前爪挥击消耗2%耐力，踢击消耗6%耐力，尾部猛击消耗8%耐力 【耐力属性】- 奔跑距离1750米，奔跑时长2分35秒，耐力恢复时长：坐姿2分20秒，站姿5分钟 【碳水化合物饮食】- 奔跑距离2.5公里，奔跑时长3分25秒【生长时间】- 完美饮食：2小时，30%生长：2小时20分钟，5%生长：2小时50分钟 - 保护区在蜜蜂达到26%时结束，同时蜜蜂也在26%时开始蜇刺 【脱水/饥饿】- 脱水：30分钟，饥饿：1小时 【气味范围】- 400米，万寿菊 - 呵呵，小花

S 萝卜花 - 萝卜未被挖掘的部分，常见于高地

S 火草 - 一种生长在高地的粉色开花植物

S 掌叶红皮藻 - 红球甘蓝

野生土豆根 - 土豆

S龙舌兰——平原生长的芦荟仿制品

S Trillium - 说实话，我已经没什么好说的了

S Fiddlehead - Teno 的饮食选择多得离谱

S 菊芋花 - 是花不是根。唔嘛唔嘛

萝卜根 - 萝卜植株真正的【萝卜部分】，也可见于高地，外观与萝卜花完全相同，仅可通过气味辨别

野生马铃薯藤 - 非马铃薯

// 腰果 - 坚果 啊啊啊啊

【南瓜】- 平原上的橙色球体

// 木瓜 - 木瓜格拉hhh

// 巴西坚果 - 坚果，嘿嘿嘿

// Russula - 沿海蘑菇 - 为什么天诺有这么多饮食啊呜呜呜

Migration Zones - Highlands, River Plains, Riverdelta, Northeast Plains. Coastal jungle, NE coast, Rocky Coast Stats - A normal bite is 35 damage, And alt claw deals 125 Damage + bleed, And the kick does 275 + bleed and knocks down dinos pachy sized and smaller and stuns dinos its size up to around carno. The tail slam does 150 damage with no bleed and seems to knock down dinos below like 1500-ish since a tail slam will knock down a cerato but not teno, just assuming its 1500 - A normal jump costs about 6% stamina (starting to see a pattern in jumping costs) An alt front claw swing uses 2% stamina, A kick uses 6%, And the tail slam uses 8% stamina Stam Stats - 1,750 Meters of distance, Run time is 2:35 , And regen time is 2:20 (sitting) and 5 minutes (standing) Carbs diet - 2.5 kilometers of distance, Run time is 3:25 minutes. Growth Times - Perfect diet: 2 hours, 30% growth: 2 Hours 20 Minutes, 5% growth 2 hours, 50 minutes - Sanctuaries end at 26% Bees ALSO begin stinging at 26% Dehydration/Starvation - Dehydration, 30 minutes, Starvation, 1 Hour Scent Range - 400 Meters, impressive Tenontosaurus - Extended The Strats - In most fights you will prioritize defense over offense, but using your trot speed to pressure an attacker into wasting more stamina without wasting your own, conserving stamina is top priority, it is precious for teno and possibly one of the most important things to watch - When facing smaller weaker predators, your alt claw will be very useful to deter things like utahs and even pachy's your tail slam is good for its range to stun small targets but the alt claw is excellent if you can't flip around fast enough to dish out a kick or tail slam, this applies to fighting bigger dinos as well like carno, if a carno is keeping close but not close enough to land a stun, an alt claw can be good to add just a bit of damage and bleed. - Use the enviornment, i cannot stress this enough, teno's impressive swim speed, ability to jump, and good mud advantage gives it so many options to hold a position, Hop on a high rock, get to shallow water to evade troodons or even outswim a carno across a river to try and lose them or attack them if they decide to cross. Even something as simple as going in a bush can cloud the visibility of your attacker and make them unsure of your next move Kick is way better than tail slam, the only advantage of tail slam is its ability in range which is good against the smaller predators and keeping distance, go for kicks once your opponent is stunned, for example carnos, the tail slam can be used to grab them from a distance, to be perfect to run up and dish out two kicks or so, also use your alt claw. that 125 damage can rack up, especially on ceratos - Have friends to cover you, going solo is viable, but leads to some situations where you can't win namely more than one carno or cerato, if you get caught in the open you will get gangbanged by carnos and ceratos, with friends this isn't as deadly a matchup - with cerato in particular, trot away from them, if theres one or two you may be able to kill them. one is possible, two is pushing it. water can work but not as well as it does on carno, cerato cannot jump so if you trot away, dishing out tail slams as you trot towards you choice of rock you can hop onto the rock for safety, keep moving at all times and you should be alright. but always keep moving until you find your safe spot to hide on. it forces the ceratos to use stamina and makes it harder for them to rack up bacteria on you. if your in a rough spot, you can always try and outrun them - In your younger ages caution is basically a necessity. you don't want to get ♥♥♥♥♥♥ over by utah pins, herrera leaps or deino lunges. basically be a schizo off his meds being cautious of every noise when you're just a lil guy. Nesting - Creating your nest is simple, no sticks required. Tenos nest in clutches of 6 and heat by sitting on eggs like most herbivores. For placement i recommend getting creative often the dense area of swamp is the best place or south, you can also use your jump to get to some unique nesting locations out of the reach of carnos. Your babies have a slower growth time but its not that bad with two growth diets, or perfect diet if you can manage to get it for them. At a certain age they can stray pretty far from the nest and should be fine, its the babies under 25% you have to watch incase a carno rolls up, make sure they're in group range though and have access to some form of safety and aren't just travelling into the open for fun, other than that. not much to it, tenonto is strong enough to hold its ground so you don't need to patrol your nesting area. babies eat solid food at around 10% Diet - Perfect diet in younger stages and afterwards i recommend S for full health regen, teno is quite the brawler, so expect alot of fights your way, you can get stamina but extra running time or not, you ain't outrunning a carno Stegosaurus - Apex Herbivore

优点：除了同类和大量掠食者外，几乎无人能敌。比如10多群犹他盗龙、肉食牛龙以及恐鳄群体，但恐鳄可以通过远离水源来躲避。 - 伤害极高，对除其他剑龙或恐鳄外的任何恐龙造成头部伤害即可一击毙命，对生命值低于1250的生物造成身体伤害也能一击秒杀。 - 移动坦克，拥有庞大的生命值。如果你是一名优秀的剑龙玩家，并且知道如何应对掠食者群体，那么最终可能导致你死亡的只有同类。 - 出色的区域控制能力，你说了算。不喜欢附近的腱龙？把它们赶走。除了恐鳄，所有东西都会为你让路，但如果它们在陆地上，肯定会快速移动 它们相当耐寒，可以在任何地方生存，最佳栖息地是有大量金盏花的区域，但你也可以去任何你想去的地方 裂痕？那是什么？ 尽管体重达六吨，它们却能从相当高的地方坠落，能从相当于自身身高的高度坠落，大约10英尺。对于一头6吨重的野生动物来说，这完全没问题。 缺点：移动速度非常慢，如果你按照正确的方式玩剑龙，这其实不应该算是缺点，但我相信对某些人来说这仍然是个负面因素。 - 甩尾攻击的范围不错，但如果使用长动画的话，冷却时间会比较长。甩尾会消耗耐力，所以一旦耐力耗尽，可能就没戏了，因为甩尾是你主要的攻击方式。 - 所有玩家都讨厌你。不开玩笑，人们确实因为剑龙的实力而讨厌它，主要是因为有人会为了取乐而用它来攻击其他玩家，所以不管你是否在他们的食谱上，甚至就算对方是食肉恐龙，只要有机会，他们也会想方设法来攻击你。 - 剑龙在获取完美饮食以快速成长方面可能会遇到一些困难，所以在幼年期阶段，如果你被想要杀死你的生物盯上，那你可能就凶多吉少了。不过一旦长到足够大的体型，你的攻击力就足以抵御犹他盗龙，偶尔也能对抗食肉龙。 因此推荐食用：山灰——一种开红花的大型高地植物。

刺角瓜——呵呵呵， Horny Melon。在沼泽中发现

S 萝卜花 - 萝卜未被挖掘的部分，常见于高地

S 火草 - 高原开花植物

S Sumac - 沼泽植物，类似花楸但体型更小

S 鸡油菌——具有讽刺意味的是，这是我第一次发现某些植物对特定草食动物有毒，而且还是对剑龙而言。现在它成了大型草食动物的食物，在沼泽中可以找到。

萝卜根 - 萝卜的根部。我知道，很惊人。

红菇属 - 蓝绿色沼泽栖居蘑菇

Migration Zones - Highlands, Swamps, Coastal Jungle Misc - Easier to grow than you think if you just hide with two diets in the middle of nowhere - heckin chonker - has the first instance of real sexual dimorphism other than colors, females have more pointed plates while the males have rounded plates - Pack limit of 5 members The Stats - Biteforce is 50 damage, and they do a whopping 1250 damage per swing, they have no alt attack, nor does holding alt and swinging change the damage - Only thing they do that uses stamina is swinging, which uses 5% stamina per swing, so you get 20 swings for a full stamina bar Stamina stats - A unsurprising 600 meter distance to run, run time being 1:25 and the regen taking 2:40 (sitting) 5 Minutes (standing) Stam diet - Distance ran increases to 800 meters, which compared to most dinos isn't the BEST but its better than normal, Run time increases to 1:50, which is pretty good Growth Times - Sanctuary Cutoff begins at 11%, Bees begin stinging at 13% Dehydration/Starvation - Dehydration starts after a whole HOUR, and Starvation doesn't occur until... 1 hour 30 minutes Scent Range - 250 Meters The Strats - One of the best ways to stay alive as stego is to keep calm, don't panic and start swinging out of fear, be precise to keep your head out of danger, and don't bother swinging if you'll miss, even if they get a hit off, your tanky nature will protect you from quite a few hits - When you use turn in place, your head turns to an almost 90 degree angle towards where your turning to, use this to your advantage to hide your head as things go for it - to cope with deinos, if you get attacked by water, run a little bit inland, if they continue chasing, get headshots with swings, when they catch up and start biting, run a little ahead and keep headshotting, this will run through a deinos 8k health quick. if they decide not to chase? move on with your business, you can try and fight hem by the waterside but often this will just injure you more rather than you getting a kill on a deino - Utilise the enviornment, stuff like shallow water, mud, dense trees and bushes, even the side of a cliff can be usefull, mud in particular is great since you can still swing in mud - When facing other stegos, prioritize getting headshots, body shots are good and all, but if your stego opponent does a long swing animation, even if he gets a hit off if you run ahead of him while he's stuck in the animation and get a headshot you will do MASSIVE damage, also its much easier to be the defender rather than the aggressor - Everything else? just trade hits or use the enviornment against, you can swing and hit utahs as they pounce off of you so use that, and with carnos you'll often be trading hits with them - Cerato is kinda scary now, being an actually competent opponent in groups, keep calm, big groups of ceratos thrive on missed swings, if they have a body, move away from it, either they leave you alone or leave their damage resist to fight you, after that. begin making your way to an environmental protection such as mud or water. if they rack up vomit on you, they're going to start doing a bit more damage, make sure to know where salt licks and water is so you don't start taking damage from dehydration or starvation Nesting - Stegos nest in clutches of five, and nest like most herbivores do, by making large mounds of dirt and heating their nest by laying on it, where you place your nest is very important, try to find a spot with at least two diet options, so an area like swamp is perfect, preferably find something that's up against an object, like the dam at swamp, a rock, a little cave, anything. stego can easily hold its ground if it puts itself between predators and its children, in the open you can protect your kids but its easier giving predators another obstacle. beyond that? its pretty straightforward, just keep track of your children and protect them, also when drinking go a little deeper in and put yourself parallel to the water, making a barrier between any possible deinos and your children Diet : Go For S, You ain't gonna be running anywhere, get that FULL health regen, or if you're scared of utahs bleed resist i guess... but health regen is WAY better Final Notes Hello! thank you for using my guide fr, i was kinda unhappy with how deserted the official wiki is, so i decided to make my own "wiki" its got a bit more personality in it than just listing off facts, at least i hope it came across that way. Anyways, i will continue to update this guide as new dinos are released, and although i'd say i did a good job with the guide, if YOU feel like anything should be in this guide please tell me, the only way i can make this guide the best it can be is with the help of others, whether you think theres something i missed that should be included, or have some strategies you know for your main dino that i may not know. or even just wanna add a little misc thing you noticed about a dino. i'm open to any kind of help, and if you have any questions about how i got certain values, like damage values and stamina cost values, just ask. its more or less just math but if your curious i can share how that works. anyways thanks for reading honestly.