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Hey there! This is a wombo-combo of all the secrets i've learned over the years. Most big crews hide tune info, gatekeep it, since they want their crew to have an edge in comp. Screw that. Lot of this is copy + pasted, so please ignore any grammatical errors, did my best. Mostly just making so i don't have to re-type it when i want to show someone how to tune. This game is a ton of fun, and if we want to keep it alive, we gotta be better as experienced players. Teach new people, don't taunt em. Hope this helps! First off, get kino! With ksl, a mod manager, you can do just about anything. From fpv drones that can be seen by other people, to waypoints you can tele to, to save-able and send-able tunes, liveries, and maps, its definitely worth the 5 minutes it takes to set up. Completely free to use, only a couple extra features if you buy, which if you do, is only $1. Anyway, on to tuning! Prep First things first, buy a car, go to mods/swaps, get the ultimate package, then choose a body kit. Yes, they change how the car drives. Choose wisely lol. Before modding, i always go to kino, go to tune, go to weight and distribution, turn that on, put center of gravity to 24, then take note of the weight (thatll be used for later.) Then, in the same tune menu, go to swaps, transmission, and put on the Getrag transmission, specifically the Dogbox. All the nerds use that one, seems to be fastest, bogs the least. Then, once thats done, back out of kino, head to garage, then make your way over to dynostand. Now for the real tuning. Suspension>Stiffness First do spring stiffness. I like about 175 front, 85 rear. Smoother the track, stiffer it can be. The more bumps/things that'll upset the car, softer it should be. Some cars also do better with different suspensions, definitely worth messing around with if you like a car. For an in-detail graph on what to set your dampers/rebound/stiffness, see the graph below. Set your spring length to whatever height you like visually, its usually better to have the rear a little lower, helps the car to stay at angle/sideways. I also prefer to have my front a little high, you want the front suspension working as good as possible. Suspension>Alignment Camber front, -6 to -8. I always use -6, but it can be good to mess with. Camber rear, +0.25 to +0.75. The car squats when you're on throttle, this makes it so when it squats, rear tires make maximum contact. Toe front, -1. If you want more grip in the front, but less angle/less stability in drift, you can run positive as well. Toe rear, +1. Another little secret from the big boys. Gives you that little extra oomf. Steering axis offset and kingpin angle inclination both dont work as intended, recommend putting both to 0. Max steering angle, can be preference, i like 62/63, but 65 is definitely fastest. Less scrubbing in the front means more energy going forward. Ackerman angle, 100 is fastest, for sure, but its okay to work up to it. Lot of people run 0 to start, work their way there. If you're keyboard mouse, 22 is a sweet spot, so is 30/33. If your car wants to straighten in turns, raise it! Caster, 6-8. Mess with it, anywhere in that range is good. Sway Bar, I usually run 40 in the front, 10 in the rear. Lowering rear to 0 can add a little more forward bite if necessary. Wheels Rim diameter, 18-19 depending on size of car/feel. Some people prefer different things, even 17s. I usually go 19. Tire width, i like 270 front, 285 rear. Works well on most cars. If you want to be a little faster, i raise rear to 305/300, front to 285. Pressure, 113/200 front, 70 rear. There is no reason to use anything other than 70. Just the fastest. I've heard 200 in front feels better on controller, but I've seen people use a lot of different ones. Just something to mess with. Adhesion, always 100. Wheelbase, i like some poke past fender in the front, and the rear tucked in a bit. Usually front being wider than rear makes car more stable in drift. Tire profile, 35-40. 40 is fastest, but 35 feels good too. Usually run 35s on smaller cars ie miata/86, 40 on the bigger stuff. Brakes Brake torque, 1000-3000 N/m, lower the better in my opinion. Overbraking can make it hard to stay on the person you're chasing, you find yourself being right there, but always playing catch up. Might be overbraking, give it a shot! Front brake bias, 70-100, i use 75/80. Helps you position yourself in drift while not effecting angle in bad ways. ABS, on is usually best, I use off. Im also keyboard mouse, so maybe thats just me. Use whatever you're comfortable with. Launch control, idk wtf this is. Can someone tell me? Engine I've been using the VR38 kino engine swap, but theres a few good ones. Also like the Rotary 20b and the Voodoo. For the VR38, I put the turbo on 1.11, engine tuneup maxed, max torque rpm all the way down, rev limiter between 7500 and maxed, and rev step at like 350. Transmission, As stated in prep, I use the kino transmission. Its just easier. I use the Getrag 260 Dogbox Custom, final drive at like 4.15-5.15, depending on how much horsepower I'm running. Clutch based trans can be better, but I usually use Spool. Now you're ready to shred! Bookmark this, favorite, show it to every newbie you see potential in. Who knows, in a week they could be doorin ya, with a lil help that is ;) Hope ya like! -B2B Tuning Calculator Google Docs Link[docs.google.com] Basic Suspension Numbers
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