游戏关键词简要说明及《炉石传说》对应术语（供《炉石传说》玩家参考）。若有错误欢迎指正，或提出补充建议。 关键词：说明（《炉石传说》对应术语） 昂扬：从手牌置入场时触发（战吼） 亡语：随从在场被破坏时触发（死亡之声） 突进：登场回合即可攻击其他随从（突袭） 疾走：登场回合可同时攻击随从和敌方首领（冲锋） 守护：若敌方有带有此关键词的随从，你的随从无法攻击敌方首领。若该随从获得潜行（如伏击）或无法被随从攻击（如威慑）等免疫效果，则此关键词失效。【嘲讽】 【伏击】：该随从无法被敌方随从、法术或效果选中。随从无论是通过攻击还是效果造成伤害后，伏击状态都会消失。（潜行） 【光环】：无法被敌方效果选中（与无法被攻击不同。在本游戏中，即使是随从也无法选中带有此效果的随从，而在《炉石传说》中，随从效果可以选中无法被攻击的随从） 【威慑】：无法被随从攻击（目前没有与《炉石传说》中类似的效果） 【启动】：你的护符每回合可激活一次以触发其效果。（本质上类似场所技能，但未标准化，且每回合可激活一次而非每两回合） 【强化】：当你拥有x点或更多PP时，触发额外效果。不可切换（无对应术语，最接近的可能是【腐蚀】？但该关键词需要使用更高费用的卡牌才能解锁卡牌的额外效果） 灾厄：消灭任何被其攻击的随从（类似【剧毒】，但即使攻击力为0也生效） 汲取：攻击时恢复与伤害值相等的首领防御力（即【生命偷取】） 突袭：随从攻击时，在伤害计算前触发其突袭效果（无标准化对应关键词，但《炉石传说》中有许多随从具有类似能力） 交锋：当攻击或防御敌方随从时，在造成伤害前触发效果。攻击首领时不触发。模式：从列表中选择特定数量的能力（选择一个，但不限于两个选项） 融合：带有融合效果的卡牌允许你将特定卡牌与其融合，以获得新的强大效果。除非另有说明，否则可以同时融合任意数量的卡牌（无等效效果） 屏障：将受到的所有伤害降为0，然后移除屏障。【神圣之盾】 纹章：整场游戏都生效的被动效果。更新：部分纹章带有倒计时（类似《炉石传说》中的任务奖励） 暗影：暗影是被摧毁的卡牌、被弃置的卡牌以及已使用的法术牌所变成的状态。每当场上的卡牌被摧毁、卡牌被弃置或法术牌被使用时，该卡牌会变成暗影并加入其玩家的墓地。机制 PP 1+：第二玩家将获得额外+1 PP。与《炉石传说》中【幸运币】的区别在于，这不是一次性使用，而是可使用两次且有冷却时间。 进化：所有随从+2/+2并获得【突进】。第二玩家在第4回合解锁进化，第一玩家在第5回合解锁。 超级进化：所有随从+3/+3并获得【突进】、【无法被伤害】、【无法被破坏】，且每当其消灭敌方随从时，对敌方首领造成1点伤害。第二玩家在第6回合解锁超级进化，第一玩家在第7回合解锁。 Mulligan：双方玩家抽4张牌，重抽次数无限制。第二名玩家不会额外抽卡。 视频推荐：一位很优秀的视频创作者，相关信息来源于此。 重要提示：不要分解你的神器卡牌，一定要手动分解。为什么？因为如果它们被削弱，你将获得全额补偿。目前，神器卡牌异常强力，所以它们肯定在削弱名单上。因此，不要分解你的神器卡牌。

新手玩家入门指南，对于首次进入游戏世界的新手来说确实很难，所以我制作了这份指南。 初期阶段： 第一步： 这是所有人都会做的第一步。 获取所有能拿到的资源，包括主线任务和每日任务，完成新手任务后，选择一个你最喜欢的职业套牌开始游戏旅程。 经济系统： 与旧版本相比，这个更新后的版本只是增加了新手组建心仪套牌的难度，你仍然需要通过更多的努力来刷取资源。旧版本的游戏卡包是100金币一包，而新版本则是500金币一包。所以你可以在一番肝帝式刷取后组建一些卡组。个人建议是把【活力】花在中立金卡和传说卡上，如果你已经计划好要玩特定职业，那就全力组建该职业的卡组。不过正如我所说，这款新游戏很“肝”，即便只是尝试全力组建任意一套卡组，你也会耗尽【活力】。 职业方面： 在购买并将新卡升至三张满编前，先试用所有职业。 剑士：最 straightforward的职业，大多数卡牌都是强力风暴，用于攻击敌方施法者。 森林：使用妖精来控制场面，需要通过连招才能触发特殊法术效果，新手很难掌握。传送门：使用神器和傀儡来接管战场或清剿敌方怪物，需要大量练习才能掌握这个职业，你还需要选择自己喜欢的路线或更多卡牌持有。 龙：后期能碾压敌方势力，前期确实较弱，但拥有强大的范围清场效果卡牌。 符文：该职业以法术或仪式效果为主，法术可以滚雪球召唤出强大的怪物或触发怪物效果，仪式则有点难以掌握，且需要大量生命值消耗才能完全构建。庇护：唯一高度依赖护身符和强力控制的职业，该职业能提供出色的场面控制和惊人的恢复能力，但这个极难掌握的职业与森林职业存在相同问题，主要挑战在于天界怪物确实非常可怕。 深渊：充满灾祸与幽灵的职业，最初由两个职业合并而成。通过摧毁己方怪物可以快速抽2张牌，如果能妥善规划怪物部署，该职业拥有巨大的收益潜力。 卡牌收集建议： - 个人建议获取中立阵营的所有金色和虹色卡牌。 - 获取并最大化每个阵营的卡牌数量，不要过度追求虹色卡牌，因为成本太高。卡组 中阶剑士 投入能轻松消灭敌方怪物并控制场面的重型单位，不过对抗快攻卡组会有些困难。

It is a commonplace notion among some experienced Forestcraft players currently that the best way to do Roach math is "not to do Roach math at all." A notable player who clarified this point and brought it to the attention of many is Potwasher, the former Rage runner up and a skilled player, who wrote an article about this in Japanese. As is usually the case, the theoretical article served to present what many Roach players were more or less thinking and doing. Yet, clarity is in itself helpful: even when we "know" about how to do something, understanding clearly what it is that we know, can help us to make even fewer mistakes. So, while this dictum about not doing Roach math is undoubtedly true, I think the most helpful ways to conceive of the benchmarks of a Roach hand's damage capacity for a given number of play points have not been put forth clearly in words. That is what I intend to explain here. While the thinking method described can be useful for anyone, I tried to explain some basics of Roach math in detail as well, so it can be useful for newer Roach players. Hopefully I've managed to create something that exhibits both depth and simplicity. Additionally, this should be helpful for playing against Roach, so players can know how likely it is that the Roach player opponent can kill or not on the following turn based on the number of Cairn's seen, one's own health pool, and so forth. Method 1: Work Backward from OTK The attack of the first Rhinoceroach you play on a given turn is the number of cards you played before Roach, +1. This much is obvious. Although it follows naturally from that obvious starting point, what is less immediately obvious is this: with 10 PP, if we have four 1-cost cards, we need three 0-cost cards and a super evolution to do 20 damage. 8 + 9 + 3 = 20. This means our hand needs to consist of mostly 1-cost and 0-cost cards. In fact, it could, for example, consist of only two Rhinoceroach, while the other seven cards are 0-cost and 1-cost cards! In most cases, then, it should be easy to tell just by looking at your hand if you can do anywhere near 20 damage. Although, sometimes it is trickier, because there are cards in our deck that are often really a 0-cost, or multiple 1-cost cards in disguise, like Fairy Convocation, Bayle, Lambent Cairn, and Carbuncle. In any case, knowing the typical resources needed to do 20 damage helps a great deal with understanding the pace of the game as a Roach player, and when we need to spend our turn assembling combo pieces to even have a chance to kill the opponent. Sometimes, we have to forego clearing the opponent's board in order to set up lethal for next turn by getting more 0-cost and 1-cost cards into our hand. An extra advantage of leaving the opponent's followers on board, though, is that we can prevent them from playing additional wards, while leaving their followers for our fairies to trade into so we don't boardlock ourselves out of our own combo, or so we can reduce the cost of an in-hand Bayle to 0. So one way to think about our damage capacity is like this: If with 10 pp we need at least three 0-cost cards and a super evolution, if we have any fewer pp, we need more 0 cost, or we cannot deal 20 in one combo. Fewer pp available = more 0 cost needed. Less HP = fewer pp and/or 0-cost needed. Our ability to meet the requirements of play points and 0-cost cards is thus something we can essentially ascertain immediately. From there, many considerations crop up. Every card missing from our combo, whether it's a 1-cost or 0-cost, is -2 total damage, and the same goes for having even a single pp less than 10. However, what if we can get 2 damage from two Lambent Cairns? What if we already have a follower on board that can deal damage? What if we already dealt chip damage to our opponent? Knowing how ambitious it is to aspire to deal 20 damage before turn 10 (or more precisely, access to at least 10 max pp) also helps us to keep in mind the importance of chip damage, and when to look for it, if possible. Since having one more PP could mean doing 2 more damage, if we just hold off a turn, can we kill them next turn, or can they possibly heal outside of lethal range? The aim of our line of thinking, then, is to be able to tell by looking at our hand and pp approximately how much damage we can do, so that we have spare time and mental capacity to think about these latter considerations, or so that we don't end up having a weak turn after we realize too late that we aren't able to beat the opponent yet. Carbuncle is a 0-cost that gives +1 PP If we have a Carbuncle in hand, in a great number of cases, as long as we have a super evolution, we can consider it an equivalent to having +1 max play points. With 9 pp, Carbuncle and a super evolution, we effectively have 10 pp. In the last section, I mentioned that with 10 pp, we need three 0-costs and four 1-costs alongside a super evolution to deal 20 damage with a double Roach combo. The exact same goes if we have a Carbuncle in hand, but we can do it one turn sooner. In other words, if we have access to a super evolution, three 0-cost, four 1-cost, Carbuncle and two Roaches (maybe we have a Godwood Staff in play, instead of 2nd Roach), Carbuncle can allow us to do the same 20 damage on turn 9, instead of waiting until turn 10. This is because Carbuncle itself adds 1 to our combo count, while also giving us an extra PP for free. It costs two play points, but gives us three play points back. However, it's important to remember that we need to be able to attack into something with our super evolved Carbunce, or we can only deal 19 damage. So we can take everything from in the last section, and add to that, "If there's a Carbuncle, I can do it one turn sooner." If we add the PP+ button to the mix, Roach can consistently OTK on our turn 8 if we are going second. Pretty scary! Remember, though, our aim is to imagine what sort of hand we should have to deal 20 damage. We want to look at our hand and be able to quickly conclude, "this is not nearly enough 0-cost" or "I need to somehow get one more 1-cost by next turn," and so on. But don't forget about reducing the need for resources by other means, i.e. by damaging the opponent. If we can deal 6 damage on turn 6 by playing a Roach early (if we have an extra, or we can return Roach to our hand with a Bug Alert, or what have you), then the number of 0 and 1-cost cards needed to kill on turn 7 or 8 is obviously much smaller! Method 2: Max PP minus Roach PP; Bonus: Triple Roach Combos Rhinoceroach costs 3 play points. Hence, naturally, we have only the number of play points left over after counting the number of Roaches we intend to play in our combo to work with. If we have 8 play points, we can only play a single 2-cost or two 1-cost cards. On a given turn, max pp - Roach pp cost + number of 0-cost cards + 1 = the attack points of our first Roach. This means with 8 play points, if we have no 0-cost cards in your hand, we can tell right away that our damage output is not very high. Our first Roach will have 3 attack at most. With a super evolution available, 3 + 4 + 3 is 10. It also helps if we think of Lambent Cairn as two 1-cost cards during a combo turn in most cases, because if we activate its combo effect, we can play two cards for 2 play points. This is why it's nice to keep Cairn on board if possible. If we have an extra bounce for a Lambent Cairn that's on board, on the turn we intend to go for lethal, it can provide extra 1-cost cards that are missing from our hand for our combo. Since we need to bounce something with Carbuncle anyway, Cairn can also save us from bouncing our Godwood Staff. Alternatively, if we have an extra Godwood Staff on board, we can use it to bounce Cairn to our hand for more resources during our combo, if we have a lot of PP, but not many cards in hand! There are times when we even want to play three Roaches in one turn, which means we only have one play point left over; unless we count Carbuncle, which adds a play point, and the pp+ button, which adds another play point. Potentially, we can play with twelve play points on a given turn. Maybe we can even play Roach four times!? That wouldn't usually be the most practical, but it's possible. In the majority of cases, if you can output lethal damage with a triple Roach combo, we can do more damage with a double Roach combo. The reasons one would opt for a triple Roach combo would usually be lack of board space, or having several 0-cost cards in hand, but few or no 1-cost cards. In that case, we might as well use up our play points playing an extra Roach, and it might be the only way to actually do enough damage. Two Parallel Methods While the first method of working backward from OTK, helps us envision what kind of hand we are looking to assemble, and how much it helps to secure chip damage, I find that method two, counting max pp - Roach pp, helps to think about what exactly needs to be played before we play our first Roach during our combo. Even if we know we have enough damage, it is still possible to play too many cards, or not enough, or board lock ourselves, or what have you. It's difficult, so let's not feel too bad for now. Therefore, it's helpful to think "this is what I need to do this turn before I play a Roach: how can I do it with only 4 pp?" Often, to eliminate the opportunities for these kinds of mistakes, it can help to play and evolve Carbuncle as soon as possible if we intend to do so. However, since Carbuncle costs 2 pp itself, we obviously shouldn't evolve Carbuncle before spending at least 1 more play point. Perhaps it will be a Fairy, or a Lambent Cairn. Then, if we are going to use the PP+ button, it might be helpful to save it until just before we are going to play your last Roach, so we don't misunderstand the amount of play points we really still have left over.

以下是一些简单的资源获取任务清单。如果你发现更多方法，请告诉我，因为这份指南还很基础。 首次任务： 1. 在单人模式中击败所有CPU卡组，可获得2450金币。 2. 完成故事模式，可获得2000金币。 3. 每个职业赢5次，可获得3500乙太（在低段位很容易完成，只需使用自动卡组不断对战，最终总会获胜或遇到对手投降）。 4. 完成所有战斗教程，可获得2250金币。 5. 完成免费战斗通行证，可获得1000金币、4包卡牌和1260乙太。 6. 创建并关联Cygames ID。 7. 如果你是《影之诗》回归玩家，关联前作账号。你需要下载旧版游戏才能执行此操作，代码位于旧版游戏的主菜单中。 9. 在互联网上发布你的代码（可使用Discord等社交媒体），以获取最高10000金币奖励。 每日清单 1. 打开你的每日礼包 2. 完成每日任务，每天至少获得300金币（你可以刷新奖励低于100金币的任务） 3. 前往公园并与他人战斗，以获取一些金币和公园钥匙（如果运气好，可能获得传说级物品） 每周清单 1. 周末将举行大厅锦标赛，参与即可获得至少200瓶剂和100金币/卢比的奖励，获胜次数越多，奖励越丰厚。（你必须至少达到D0等级才能参加。） 2.每周公园任务 切勿自动分解卡牌 正如标题所示，这一点非常重要，再怎么强调都不为过。 如果Cygames对卡牌进行削弱，通常会设置一个全额退款期，供玩家分解被削弱的卡牌。这意味着，分解这些卡牌你将获得全额的乙太返还。 资深玩家都知道，应该观察当前的主流环境，暂时不要分解卡牌，因为乙太的返还量非常大。 在我看来，目前造物仇、增幅龙和中速剑都非常强势，所以先不要分解这些卡组的卡牌。如果你确实急需乙太，可以分解除造物体系外的所有卡牌。 新信息：Cygames已声明，若卡牌被削弱，玩家最多可获得该卡牌3张的乙太返还。因此，你可以放心分解拥有超过6张的卡牌。请注意不要分解高级卡牌。

Do you want to bully f2p players with your power of credit card? Then Shadowverse WB is the perfect game for you! Follow this guide and you will have so much fun to destroy all f2p players and make them to not want to play this game anymore! Free stuff First, the boring part is the same as what the f2p players do. Clear all the daily mission, event mission, story mode, practice AI, and battle tutorials. As a p2w you should go into PvP only after you swipe your credit card. You will get around 70 packs in like 3 days (including opening launch event), which is 7 guaranteed legendary. The free underpowered pathetic deck that you get after completing beginner mission and only includes 1 legendary is like whatever to you. You can decide which to choose after you swipe your credit card to find out what you lack. I recommend Dragoncraft because it is most effective when you are p2w. Oh, and for the friend invite campaign, you can enter my code (LFhqzDS) or any code you find anywhere in the internet just to get 4 packs, again that means nothing to you as a p2w. You don't have to be like those peasant who will spam their invite code all over all social media, steam community and everywhere they can spam because you don't need that 10,000 rupies anyway. You don't have friends anyway but you have your credit card, so you don't have to worry about that. Afterall, why spend time trying to promote your invite code when you can just pay! Time to pay! Since I live in Tokyo, Japan, all the currency in this guide will be in JPY. First, you need to prepare JPY 17,200 as a minimum. Wait...how do you get JPY 17,200 in the first place? Well it is not that difficult if this game is your only hobby. Otherwise you will have to cut corner from other hobby. For example, you could get like 3-4 decent full game on Nintendo Switch for this amount, while JPY 17,200 might not even get you what you need in this game. But stop doubting yourself, because you are the martyr of this game. No matter how many negative review is in the store page, you just have to pretend you didn't see all of that and believe that you made the right choice! What? The only hobby you have is this game, but you still don't have JPY 17,200 to spare? Well, a meal in Tokyo cost like JPY 500~1000 depending on how you eat. But do you really need to eat so nutritious? What if you can just grab plain white rice onigiri from the convenient store, just so that you don't die from starving? What if you don't need your coffee or green tea, because the tap water in Japan is so clean you could survive just by getting water source from tap? Ta-da there you go, JPY 800 savings (x 2 meal, you don't need breakfast) for like two weeks will give you enough money to spend on this game. No, this game is not expensive at all even compare to Nintendo Switch game or your daily expense, you just need to make things work at the end of the day! Once you have your JPY 17,200 ready, you need to buy the following: 1. Crystals + Visage Bundle Contents (JPY10,000 for 5,500 crystal (here onwards simply refer to as "C")) 2. Starter Bundle (JPY2,000 for 1,100 C) 3. Deckboost Bundle (JPY 5,000 for 2,200 C) 4. Welcome Bundle (JPY 200 for no C) After purchasing the above, you will get a weird Visage, 8,800 C, 14 card packs with guaranteed 5 random legendaries, and 3,500 vials (=1 legendary of your choice) . Now the tricky thing is while No.1-3 is also available on Steam, you have to buy No.1~3 from the webstore because they offer slightly higher C for the same price. (No.4 is only available on Steam) But if you are smart enough, you will notice that after you purchase from No.1-3 from the webstore, which are supposed to be a one-time offer, you could buy them again as Steam DLC and no one is stopping you from doing that! As you think you are so smart and cash in another JPY 17,000 into the game, you will find out that the game will not give you anything and you just wasted another JPY 17,000, so you have to waste your time and try to get refund from Steam. But this is not a scam, because Cygames had written so clearly on the webstore and in the in-game store that this is a one-time offer across all platform, so you have only yourself to blame for not reading the fine print! Gotcha, haha! What to Buy The most obvious high value stuff you can buy in game, other than all the useless stuff in the Cosmetic Supply part of shop, is the Battle Pass that cost 750 C and 10 x 1000 C limited time (as when I am writing this guide) card pack deal. Even if you had already purchased all the high value bundle for JPY 17,200 (lets just exclude the 200 yen that give no C for simplicity sake), you are still only at 8,800 C and you lack 1,950 C to buy the Battle Pass + Card pack deal. Purchasing an extra 1,500 gems for JPY 3,000 is still just not enough, so you have to purchase the next higher pack- 2,600 gems for JPY 5,000. If you do purchase this pack and spend 10,750, you are left with 650 C that you can't spend anywhere else that have good value, because buying 13 daily packs with the left over C feels so awful when you know that there will sure be some sort of value deal they will offer in the future. That's right, you must cash in more C to buy future value pack if you don't want your 650 C to go wasted! This is not predatory at all because it is your total freewill if you want to just buy 13 daily packs and call it a day! Now that you had a fair amount of random legendary, you should be able to build your ideal deck, but there is also a chance that your legendary are split so equally among all class that you can't even build a deck with all these money spent. But if you stop now, all the money you spent are wasted forever, so you have no choice but to continue to play and spend! You have to give positive review in the Steam store so that you don't have to admit you made a wrong decision! Vials The good news is while the peasants can't liquify their cards until they have 3 copies of them, this doesn't apply to you because as a p2w you will have more number of packs opened than them, and more cards to liquify. 7 of the cards in a pack have the probability of: 1.56% Legend, 6% gold, 25% Silver, 67.44% Bronze (treating 0.06% exchange ticket as Legendary for simplicity sake), and another 1 of the card in a pack is a guaranteed Silver or above with the probability of 1.56% Legend, 6% gold and 92.44% silver. And given that all cards have a 8% chance to be Premium, the expected vials value for 1 pack of 8 cards is around 383 vials (7x 46.96544 + 1 x 54.24896) . Assuming you are a p2w and is able to liquify almost anything that you don't need to get what you need, you just need to open 9 packs on average to get a legendary of your choice. That's like only 900 C or a little bit just below JPY 2,000, even considering that you need multiple legendary for a single deck, this is not expensive at all! *In reality you get a guaranteed legendary every 10 packs and random stuff from park treasure key that the above calculation had not taken account into, so it is not even that expensive! Ranked Match Ramp Dragon, Premium Orb on Cocytus so that your whole Apocalypse Deck will also be Premium. There is no skill needed as you randomly smash your powerful card with EP and SEP into their followers, or play your no-brainer Storm follower with SEP into their face! Make sure you emote before you play your Premium 1 mana 13/13! And remember, (5+3)+(9+3)=20 quick math! Going forward And don't forget, the above is only for the first card set. The next card set will be just around the corner, so be prepare to spend more money each time a new set launch! Have fun losing in real life and spend more money in a virtual game, which they can just decide to press the reset button at anytime to introduce Shadowverse 3, and let you start your collection from zero again!!!

如何评分和比较你想要的卡牌。 介绍=怪物卡牌的基础评分 各位打开这份漫游指南的玩家，大家好。今天在本指南中，我将教大家一种方法，让你能够比较和理解如何评估卡牌价值，以及持有卡牌能为你带来什么。 为什么我要学习这个方法？ 嗯，作为作者，我认为主要原因是不同卡牌之间的比较确实很困难。首先，这是游戏中仅有的大量卡牌，组建你理想的卡组是一件非常困难的事情。 我不想按照你的方法进行比较。 是的，你有权这么做。这只是我个人发明的一种比较方法，以及我对这款游戏的理解。没有任何强制要求玩家必须这样做或这样想。如果你有理由选择自己的卡牌或卡组，那就去做吧。基础分数= 基础分数 首先要计算的是怪物、法术或护身符卡牌的基础分数。 我们会有一种计算方法，首先需要考虑两点：一是强度评分，二是卡牌费用。以下列出的是没有任何效果的普通卡牌情况。 ==1费怪物== +1+1 = 2（1点攻击和1点防御） ==2费怪物== +2+2 = 4（2点攻击和2点防御） ==费用点数规则== 费用越高，数值相应增加，我们会列出费用比例并应用到费用中，以便比较和选择更优的组合。 +10+10 = 20（10点攻击和10点防御） 如果抽到两张卡牌，一张4费，另一张6费，我们可以通过两种方式使用这10点费用，如下所示。+4 +4 -4 = 4（4费4攻4防） +6 +6 -6 = 6（6费6攻6防） +10 +10 -10 = 10（10费10攻10防） 4+6 = 10（使用一张卡牌或两张卡牌的力量点数） 一张卡牌和使用两张卡牌拥有相同的分数，因此可以说使用两张卡牌或单张卡牌在实际战斗中能产生相同的战斗点数。 ==法术与护符== 消耗越高，基础点数越多，你将获得更强力效果的分数。 进阶分数= 现在我们将增加难度，测试卡牌的确切分数以及多张卡牌的组合。 正面部分 1.守护 +1分 2.突进 +1分 3.风暴 +2分 负面部分 1.使你的领袖生命值降低的卡牌 2.伤害你的怪物卡牌的卡牌 3.随机效果，无法选择目标。 法术或护身符卡牌 1.单体伤害 1-2.消灭单个目标 2.范围伤害 3.强化你的部队卡牌 4.弱化敌方卡牌 对比案例 现在开始对比。