A beginners guide for new players to learn some things they may not learn from more advanced guides, and tips from a beginner on how to be a better beginner :D 1) Intro - Beginner tips from a beginner This guide is to show new players some really good tips from someone who is not an advanced player, but not new either... I think this guide will help people who struggle with the game early, because it will lay out alot of things that more advanced guides may assume you already know. Plus, there are alot of my own pieces of advice for how to improve your playing when you are brand new to Mechabellum. Please note than I am not an advanced or expert player, and this guide doesn't go too deep into strategy as much as it does basic concept and understanding, so you can realize that you really CAN win any round no matter how it starts off. The very first thing is to practice.. and I mean literally, the game mode PRACTICE. One guide I read said that you should be able to beat the insane difficulty level 3 times in a row before you start playing Multiplayer... and I think this was really good advice. I started off playing the easy mode until i won 3 times in a row, then i would move to next difficulty until i won 3 times in a row, then the next, etc. This will help you in two important ways. One, it will let you experience the units, see how they move, fights, counter other units or get countered by other units, without the stress of dealing with online players. You can see their movement speed, range, effectiveness against units, etc. and Two, it will give you some basic experience with unit placement and how they are affected by the environment and other units. By the time you can beat the insane level 3x in a row, you will be comfortable enough to play online. That being said, I cannot say enough about the guide site Mecha Monarch https://mechamonarch.com/unit/ This site is magnificent, and is a great goto source for looking up units on the fly, checking out their strengths, weaknesses, uses and counters. I refer to it on the fly during battles all of the time to figure out good counters. He does a great job of explaining advanced game techniques in simple, easy to understand sections. ONE LAST THING TO REMEMBER: One thing that is really great about this is game is that is it NEVER over until it's over. You can have 1 single point left and your opponent still has all of theirs, as long as you can turn the corner and win this next round, you can still come back. In fact, coming back from behind seems to be my thing, lol. I had a 10 round matche just today where I lost the first 8 rounds bad, but won the last 2 and won the match...I had 112 points left and my opponent had 4800, and i turned it around and won. Always look for a counter and stay ahead of your opponent, most situations can be flipped, don't give up! 2) Starting Player Cards and Units When picking your starting cards, here are a few simple tips: -Don't worry too much about what your starting HP is ... it may look like a big deal, bit it really isn't. -Money is always good, so cards like the cost control or supply specialist that give extra $ each round is never really a bad idea -Cards that give units after a certain time (like getting a Rhino on round etc.) have multiple uses. One, even you you won't get the free unit until a certain round, that unit starts off unlocked in your build menu, so i can be built if immediately. Another use for these cards is to just sell the item for the Cash bonus instead of using them. Getting a free $300 for a sabertooth you don't really need can be a big help. -Battles are mostly won based on certain units countering other units, and as such, there is usually alot of overkill on one side or another, so small stat buffs or debuffs aren't always a big deal. Taking a 11% hit to your attack and defense to have a cost control specialist may sound bad, bit it's really not that big of a deal, and you'll find that extra $100 a turn to be worth it. -Cards like Giant specialist can give you a chance to make a big end-game comeback by allowing you to buy Giant units for cheap late game when you have the money to drop 2 or 3 of them at once. One of the biggest mistakes very new players make, and I did this for awhile myself, was to think that you're tied to your starting units... you're not... you're really not. If your starting units are going to be easily countered by the opponents starting units, then don't start swapping out to something that counters those units, instead of trying to force your units to work. The first couple rounds of the game can be very forgiving, even if it looks like you're getting crushed, the actual drain on your score won't be too bad first round or two. Whenever I look at the starting cards, I think of two things: What is the chaff going to be, and what is the damage dealer going to be. Remember, you will have starting money before the first round even starts, so you can add additional units to your starting lineup, you DO NOT have to stick with these units only. If you see good damage dealers that you like, but don't see the chaff you want, you can buy it still before the round starts. REMEMBER: - Starting HP isn't that important - Starting Units DON'T define your match - Free Units will be unlocked from your build menu immediately - Free Units can be sold for a cash boost 3) Opening Placement and Concepts Slightly more important, but still not carved in stone, is your starting unit placement. This position will dictate your strategy for at least the first 1-3 turns, if not for the rest of the match. I would say there are basically 3 different positions (left right center), and 2 different stances (aggressive , defensive) and choose from. Again, for more advanced players, these ideas may not be perfect or ideal, so please feel free to refine them in comments, but they are meant to serve as basic ideas. FIRST THINGS FIRST: - LOOK AT YOUR OPPONENTS CARDS. Below their name it will show you what player card they chose. This will be VERY helpful in trying to figure out his intentions. If they have an air specialist card, and you don't have any anti-air units to start off with, you may want to keep that in mind and make sure you get some. If they have an elite specialist, they will likely try to overpower you with one or two overpower units, often marksmen, so think about how you may want to counter that in the near future. DEFEND YOUR TOWERS WITH GOOD PLACEMENT Your two towers are obviously important because destroying them, or having yours destroyed, greatly effects the battle. Destroying a tower will lower your Damage output to 10% and increase the damage you take by 50% for 9 seconds, which sucks. So defending them is obviously important. What you may not realize is that you don't necessarily NEED to defend both of them, or really any of them, as losing towers doesn't lose the match ... but it certainly won't help. You can choose either Position: - Spread your Defense evenly to defend both towers: This usually involves a very symmetrical formation as the battle goes on, with all units evenly placed and positioned across a single, large front. -Group your units on one side or the other: This will put all of your units around only one of your towers, leaving the other completely or almost completely undefended. The purpose of this is to try and overpower one side and take down the enemy tower in front of you quickly and with overwhelming force. It can be a bit of a cat and mouse game at first if the opponent does the same on the opposite side, so using the correct counters each round is very important. You can also choose your stance: - Aggressive: Aggressive stance usually means you're placing units as close to the enemy as possibly, right up on the front line. Your units should be able to counter enemy chaff very quickly. Being aggressive means constantly shifting your units and tactics each turn to stay ahead of the opponents counters. An effective aggressive stance will be able to tear towards the closest tower and move to counter the opponents units in force while using the towers debuffs as an advantage. - Defensive: This usually means placing your units further to the rear, allowing the enemy more free space to move but also drawing them into a killbox that you can control. Playing defensive can be risky because it is reactionary, meaning you are usually the one countering the opponents attempts to break your killbox, so you are a step behind each of his moves. If you play defensive, is it VITAL to have an end-game plan to break out and go on offensive eventually, otherwise the opponent will figure you out and break your stance. YOUR STARTING $200, AND WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH IT -$200 may not sound that great to start off with, but it will actually give you alot of options to change around your starting lineup. Chaff units like Fangs or Crawlers are free to unlock, and $100 each, you will ALWAYS have the option to drop either 2 fangs or 2 crawlers as Chaff, if you want. If your opponent starts off with marksmen and you only have arclights and hounds ... you may want to add some crawlers to keep those snipers occupied. -Look at your units speed when considering placement. Fast units will move way ahead of your slower tanks and damage dealers, so keep that in mind when placing your units. Depending on your position and stance, you may want to have our fast untis in the rear so they catch up to and engage the opponent at the same time as your tanks and damage dealers, or you may want them ahead to occupy enemy fire while your damage dealers engage from distance. -Using Rapid Resupply (on the Towers section of this guide) will give you an extra $200 this round and can be used to purchase additional units, or buy upgrades for the ones you have. -Don't over commit early ... dumping all of your starting money into upgrades for your starting units, only for them to get eaten alive by the opponents placement will put you in a big hole early. Be selective about what you upgrade right away. -It's OK to save your money. It took a LONG time for me to really drill this into my head, but you DON'T have to spend your whole budget each turn, it will carry over. If you aren't 100% of what you want to spend that last $50 or $100 on, save it... you will be amazed at how much of a difference it can make on your next turn, give your more money to build counters. 4) Chaff - You're probably not using enough Another thing it took me forever to fully understand was using chaff correctly. Chaff is generally considered cheap, mobile units that come in large groups, like fangs and crawlers, and to some extent other units like wasps and hounds. Chaff can be incredibly effective as both an offensive and defensive tool especially if you decide to make them your primary weapon and get to the endgame with them. Fully upgraded squads of fangs or crawlers can me a nightmare. I have found that this game is really a battle of chaff and countering chaff .. with whoever winning that fight more often than not going on to win the round. Your chaff is also not just something you buy once or twice in the beginning rounds and then forget about, you should be adding chaff constantly throughout the fight to keep the battlefield fluid. I almost ALWAYS will buy either fangs or crawlers on my first round, even if I start with them... the more the better. Going back to making sure you look at your opponents player card and units, buy the chaff that counters theirs. If they have fangs, buy crawlers or vice versa. Fast units like crawlers will move very quickly, even is you place them all the way in the rear, they will outrun most of your units and hit the front lines quickly. If you place them up front, they will be way ahead of your other units and on their own. Neither one is particularly bad, as long as it is part of your plan. Slower units like fangs may make sense to put closer to the front, and sometimes it does, but keep in mind that since they are moving slower, placing them towards the rear means they will enter the battle later, likely after alot of the counter chaff has been destroyed, and will add a second layer of chaff for you. Your chaff serves a very important role that isn't 100% about dealing damage ... ALOT of your chaff will be used to distract enemy fire so that YOUR damage dealers can kill those units who are occupied trying to pick off 30-40 crawlers running around. A perfect example of this is crawlers VS marksman. Marksman can be lethal, especially in groups that have been upgraded, they can 1-2 shot many units with their powerful rifles.... BUT if you have 20 crawlers running at them, it doesn't matter how much they overkill each one, they can still only shoot one at a time. Your crawlers will quickly overrun the marksman and destroy it. Chaff units like crawlers and Fangs are GREAT for distracting the fire from power units that don't deal splash damage.... like Melting Points. Their single laser mode, while extremely powerful, can be distracted picking off dozens of little crawler while your power units are blasting away at it. KEEP ADDING CHAFF. And not only that, but stagger it... put some on different depths of your backfield, so that they enter the battle in a 'drip' ... you should always have a steady stream of chaff running into the battle if you can. USE CHAFF CARDS. Not always, but sometimes, these are pretty useful. Cards that give you a free crawler for wasp drop for 1 turn can be useful to sneak attack an opponent tower from behind, or simply provide additional free chaff for your front lines. CHAFF CAN BE OFFENSIVE. Anything that is in large numbers can really be used as chaff... even units like mustangs and wasps. Units like these usually serve the basic role of distracting high damage dealing enemies, but they also have more offensive damage potential and longer ranges, and can serve as their own form of chaff. Hounds are also unique in that they are very effective against both crawlers and fangs, so can dictate a 'no chaff' type of battle if used properly. YOUR NOT USING ENOUGH CHAFF. One other piece of advice I read from another guide somewhere said that you're probably not using enough chaff, and even if you think you're using enough chaff, you're probably not using enough chaff. Continue to add it, stagger it, and drip it into the fight. Don't just do it mindlessly, watch each turn as it unfolds and adjust. 5) You're probably not using your Tower Abilities Your towers are not just there to not get destroyed, each one provides you with invaluable upgrades. In fact, if you're not using something from a tower each turn, you're probably doing it wrong. Without going in depth about each thing, I'm just going to give you basics.. - UPGRADE YOUR TOWERS: Upgrading your tower level not only increases it hitpoints, but more importantly decreases the negative effects and length of time your are debuffed when it is destroyed. 9 seconds is a LONG time to go with only doing 10% damage and taking 50% more, but upgrading the tower level will shave important seconds off this time. If you are choosing to only defend a single tower, then upgrade the tower you are NOT defending so that when it gets destroyed, you won't be debuffed as long. - PURCHASE FIELD RECOVERY. Field recover costs $100 but it will MAKE you money. This will allow you sell one unit per turn, getting 100% of its base price (the higher the unit, the more money you get) but NOT reimbursing you for any tech you purchased for the unit. This an be useful for LOTS of reasons. One is selling units that you don't need or aren't performing so you an use those assets more effectively. This is especially good if you've moved away from your starting units and want to get some money for them. It is also helpful to recover units you played to counter, but are ineffective. If you bought a rhino for your front line, but it's getting shredded, sell it and try something else. Another important use for this is to sell units that are just feeding the enemy. Killing units gains experience, and experience gains upgrades, and 1 upgraded unit it better than 2 non-upgraded ones. If an enemy melting point is destroying your expensive sabertooth every round and you can't stop it ... sell the sabretooth... get yourself $300-$400 bucks and stop feeding the melting point. - USE THE RAPID RESUPPLY. It is basically an additional $200 per round at the cost of a net loss of $100 next round. It hits harder in the earlier rounds, but in the later ones it's pretty much something you do every time. Personally, I use this almost every round, every battle, unless I'm just destroying the opponent. It can be a HUGE bonus sometimes to drop a couple shields to cover your units during a critical turn, or buy an upgrade for your giant, or purchase a range buff. Always remember there is an extra $200 waiting for you if you want to use it. - DEPLOY ADDITIONAL UNIT. This $50 upgrade will allow you to drop 1 additional unit this turn, so you can place 3 units instead of 2. This can be very handy for quickly dropping groups of chaff to counter or distract an unsuspecting opponent, or drop 3 giants in one turn to try and turn the tide of the match. - RANGE UPGRADE. For $100 all of your units will get a range bonus for this turn. This is another tower upgrade i often use every turn.. in fact i often use the rapid resupply and get the extra $200, use $100 for the range upgrade, and save the other $100 to offset the loss. Range can be a huge game changer if you're trying to flip someones counter... it never hurts to be able to hit them from further away than they can hit you. Another bonus if this is that it is cheap for only $100, and will apply to ALL of your ranged units, including their special abilities like anti-air missiles, and giants like melting points. - DAMAGE AND DEFENSE UPGRADES. These can be purchase individually, and increase for each round. The first level is $100 each and will increase offense power or defense power by 12%, the next level is $250 and will increase it further, and so on... with each level being more expensive. These are usually my goto options instead of spending money on consumables like sentry missiles. While the actually % bonuses are not always huge because of how the counters work in this game, it doesn't hurt and is a PERMANENTupgrade, unlike the Range bonus. Plus towards the endgame, they can be more relevant if your opponent has level 2 offense and defense upgrades and you have none, regardless of that the counter system looks like. 6) Quick things about Flanks One thing you also don't want to take for granted are your flanks. It's easy because in practice mode, the AI doesn't use the flanks, or at least not very well, so it's not a big issue. In multiplayer your flanks an make or break your battle instantly. You can start placing units on flanks on round 2, so it's important to keep an eye on them. Make a habit of checking your flanks at the start of each turn, because many people, including me, will try to steal a round by placing a quick unit on an unguarded flank to rush a tower. If left unnoticed, this group can grow quickly and be a real problem. Placing units on the flanks can also help distract rear units while your frontline units close the distance faster. You can place sentry missiles on the extreme left edges of your playfield, they will act as proximity alarms in case someone tries to sneak units on your flanks, and in most case will destroy them completely while they are warping, although next round those units will still be there. Just remember to check to make sure your sentry missiles are still there each turn, and address any intruders with a counter unit. 7) Final Beginner Tips for Beginners -Try not to throw money away on consumables unless they are really necessary. Don't get into the habit of buying 4 sentry missiles each turn to counter someones chaff units... it isn't that hard to counter sentry's and you will find yourself wishing you had all of that lost $$ back when they stop working. Sentrys and missile defense guns are useful for certain places and times, but if you're using them as a crutch to prop up your defense, it won't last. - You MUST keep changing, and trying to anticipate how your opponent is going to counter your attacks, or your defensive kill box. If you are on round 5 and your two melting points are kicking butt, think about what he is going to do to stop them and plan to counter it... because in most cases if you just keep doubling down and making more melting points, his counter will overwhelm you. Try to avoid attrition fights, go for something with an advantage.... this game is about counters and counter-counters... any slug fest is going to break one way or another, so try to have a say in it. - ALL of your units have two goals, regardless of what unit it is. 1) Kill enemy units 2) Don't feed enemy units. Look at your units kill counter, beneath their icon on the bottom left... does it have 0 kills after 3-4 rounds? is it distracting fire or just getting slaughtered? Consider selling it if it is not performing. Having units that you build, got countered, and then forgot about is only going to feed his countering units all of that EXP, and the next thing you know you're surrounded by unstoppable, rank 4 units. - Quantity isn't always best. Units of a certain type share experience with all units of that type. So if you have 4 squads of stormcallers, then all experience from their kills gets split between the 4 of them, making it take longer for each one to level up. But if you have only 1, it will absorb all of that exp and level up MUCH faster. a rank 2 unit is going to be better than 2 rank 1 units, and the rank 3 and 4 can often take on multiple groups until they eventually become unstoppable. - Overwhelm powerful, non-splash damage units like marksmen and sabretooth with tons of cheap chaff like crawlers or wasps. - Play the Air / Land cat and mouse game. If you notice he has no air defense units, try and sneak a round win by placing a single air unit... sometimes it will be the last unit you have in a defeat, but they can't kill it so it steals you a round. Don't over commit though, see how it does and how they might counter before buying more or upgrading. Units like the Eyebots can be useful because they start as land units, but can be upgraded mid-match to be air and ground. - Keep an eye on your flanks. At the very beginning of each round, the first thing you should do it check your flanks, make a habit out of it. Use a space $50 here and there to place sentry missiles on your flank edges, they can serve as an early warning for opponents trying to sneak in a flank drop. - You can place special cards like shield drops on flanks. Plus remember you can place a unit on a flank to distract an enemy, and then sell it next turn to avoid his counter. Just remember you will need to give it time to warp in after you place it, so don't put it in immediate harm. - Build Chaff! - NEVER GIVE UP! Sure some fights look like lost causes, but all it takes it the perfectly timed card drop, the right upgrade, or purchasing the perfect counter units, if you can slow down the rate at which the enemy is winning, you can stop and reverse it.

本指南将告诉你如何进行更多场比赛，还会提供一些小技巧，助你避免成为令人讨厌的玩家。 如何在《机甲战棋》中进行更多场比赛 步骤1：点击快进按钮。自上次更新后，该按钮会在约100秒时出现……每场比赛都点击它的话，你每小时平均能多进行3场比赛！（结果可能因情况而异） 不该做的事 1. 不要做那种故意拖延时间的讨厌玩家。合理使用你所需的时间，但也要尊重其他玩家的时间。一旦决定好策略，就行动并快进吧！

1. Spacing is vital, horizontally and vertically. You don't want your units so close together that a single missile card (or sentry missile) can destroy multiple units, especially valuable units. Close formations of low hp units are a no-no (horizontal or vertical is fine, just not too close and not squares). Later in the game you'll have no choice but to stack up and accept a little vulnerability. However, don't keep your units (especially slow moving units) too close together. It's begging for orbital bombardment, napalm, missiles, stormcallers, explosive fists... Yes, you want to concentrate your forces, so everyone is firing at the same time. But you don't want them physically concentrated, like a clump of tanks and mustangs sitting still. Ideally you want units at close range fighting (for example crawlers and balls), units at medium range fighting (mustangs or arclights) and units at long range fighting. Try to space your units so that everyone is attacking at the same time but in different places. Crawlers should be pushing through the tanks, acting as meatshields for marksmen/phoenixes/fortress fire. 2. Try to out-mind game your opponent (this may only apply at higher mmr, I have no idea what happens at 1000 or below). Say the missile card comes up early/midgame and he has a lvl 2 mustang with the +100% attack card, it's doing huge damage vs your crawlers/wasps. Say there's no obvious pickup like either supply specialist. He's fairly likely to shield it, assuming you'll go missile so your missile will be wasted. You might want to attack another mustang, or some other soft target that's unlikely to be shielded. Don't go straight for the highest value target automatically, especially lategame when there are lots of shields going up. Likewise, you may want to napalm somewhere forward of where it would be most optimal. Consider where he'd put shields and then put napalm ahead of that, at least enough to fry advancing crawlers. An extension of this is anticipating countermeasures. You're going heavily into tanks vs giant specialist? Expect fortress/overlord coming up, so throw in some ablative crawlers to counter the counter. 3. Air defence is vital, light and heavy. I consider light air defence to be stuff like fangs, wasps or mustangs (fortress AA too, when it hits), stuff suitable to counter wasps. Heavy air defence is marksmen, phoenixes and melting points, suitable to counter overlords. On round 1 if you don't have any AA and you're fighting an aerial specialist with 2 ground units... get aa. They can take free experience and hp from you if you don't have AA. You should have air defence on the flanks as well by mid-late rounds. This can help fend off a wasp card, or a sneaky phoenix flank. I like having a pair of mustangs on the flanks, they're fast enough to get up to the front if the other guy doesn't flank. Using missiles to guard flanks is also a decent tactic if you don't have any spare resources. Note that sometimes you'll lose a round and your missile will get wasted on crawlers or whatever's blowing up your pylons, so it's not a perfect tactic. Also, if the missile deters your opponent from striking behind you, you've just lost 50 you can't get back. 4. A devious tactic is putting a crawler or fang at the front-centre. It'll die but drag a lot of enemy units into the centre, into a stormcaller/napalm/oil/acid killzone. Infuriatingly, a sentry missile right on top of that crawler can often miss 1 or 2 survivors, if you have it on a move order. Said crawler in the centre will also eat a lot of artillery fire, it's a poor man's anti-missile. 5. Lategame, once you're running out of ideas, it might be a good move to throw 2 crawlers or fangs at the extreme rear left and right flanks. They can distract whatever's back there for precious seconds, disjointing the enemy army. Then you can defeat them in detail. 6. Card combos. The free upgrade card and the training card have great synergy, naturally. Put the free upgrade on a giant unit, train it and save 200! Once your enemy identifies you've got a fast-lvling giant, they'll throw down a melting point or make some arrangement to beat it. Then you can sell the giant, getting your free upgrade card back + cost + the 200, 400, 600 you DIDN'T have to pay. Selling is situational and this tactic is based a little on luck of card draw (the same luck that always gives my enemy giant hunter when I've got four on the field). Still, it should raise the value of free upgrade and training. Likewise, deployment specialist (underrated IMO) and non-giant specialist have a good synergy. You're basically saving 150-200 per turn, throwing down 3-4 units at 50 off. 7. Subsidized Crawlers. It's a cheap card, it's got potential for huge value. Crawlers seem to still get xp even if they die without doing any damage sometimes, late-game. If you've got a couple of crawlers near lvling up early-game, seriously consider it and go more into crawlers. Only sometimes do they throw down a vulcan and even then, you can shield the crawlers with steel balls! 8. Don't fall behind in a Giant race. If the other guy puts down two fortresses or overlords, he may well be fully committing to giants. Don't make the error of half-countering it, thinking 'oh I'll add some more steel balls and chaff, work around it' - past a certain tipping point (many fortresses with shields are hard to handle) you need melting points, en masse and at high levels. Once you see he's fully committed, it may be too late to throw down the melting points with the necessary tech, numbers and level. One lost match can lose you the game even from 2000 + HP, if there are many giants on the field. 9. Hero units. Sometimes (rarely, lategame) the match will be dominated by a hero or a couple of heroes, a lvl 6 arclight with the range card and 3 upgrades... Don't hesitate to obliterate them with orbital javelin or ion beam. I once won a game by ion beaming this insanely powerful super-leveled wasp with about 200 range from elite marksman and the range card. It was too strong, nothing else could handle it. 10. Finishers. If your opponent is 1500 hp or less after you've been trying a conventional, symmetrical strategy, it may be time to throw down three frontline rhinos with a tech and a move order into the enemy pylon. Put them near the centre if you want ambiguity about which pylon you'll attack next round should the finisher fail, or near the flank for maximum striking power (the right or left side is usually easiest for a big push through). Or 2-3 overlords on a flank with weak aa. This is rather counterable but can win you the round decisively. Don't think that you have to stay with a conventional strategy the whole game, you can end with an omega flank or something cheesy. I kinda like launching a phoenix flank, then getting those phoenixes back with quantum reassembly. If you're planning to go big on phoenixes, you can throw one or two away for a flank attack earlier on, try to win that round cheaply. 11. EMP. If they have several fortresses with fists, EMP them. EMP is great at solving a lot of problems, it deals with people who go big into one unit type and tech it up. If you're being EMP'd, try drawing it away with crawlers (for Melting Point EMP or storm EMP), EMP the EMP units (if you can). The Photon Field/Coating also blocks EMP while active.

有些人想要一个视频。

本指南将介绍游戏中的所有单位、它们最常用的策略与克制方法，以及最佳技能。 单位及其应用 在这段内容中，我会讲解各单位的能力以及它们的常见用法。

本指南将为你介绍“后排黄蜂”的玩法策略。核心思路是为黄蜂堆叠大量射程，组建几支极其强大的黄蜂部队，它们通常能轻松消灭一切敌人。在使用此策略时，你可能会先处于劣势，但会突然实现翻盘。 本指南还将探讨对抗该策略的潜在方法，主要是【堡垒防空导弹】。 为何要使用后排黄蜂？ 黄蜂具备成为高输出后排单位的出色特质。它们较高的单位数量和不错的射速使其能有效对抗集群单位，而顶级的伤害输出和【地面攻击专精】特性让它们即使面对巨型单位也能发挥作用。黄蜂相对较高的单发伤害，也使其能有效应对【护甲强化】带来的固定伤害减免。基本上，它们简直能摧毁一切。野马战机并不实用，它们的射程和黄蜂战机差不多*，经常会攻击无关紧要的地面目标**，而且当黄蜂战机向它们开火时，它们会死得很快***。 *在所有升级完成后！ **假设你有真正的前线！ ***就像其他所有东西一样！ 为什么不应该让黄蜂战机待在后排？ 它们的射程真的很差。这需要大量投入才能改善。 此外，你很有可能被要塞防空弹幕切换攻击而被摧毁。不过，这也是可以解决的。 那么后排黄蜂战机到底是什么？ 就是待在后排的黄蜂战机！基本上，你需要购买所有现有的射程升级——射程强化、精英神射手，以及指挥中心里那个能在一回合内提供+10射程的升级（但这个只在特定时候使用），然后再装备地面专精和空中专精。空中专精很有用，因为它能让你在应对敌方空中单位时部署黄蜂战机——比如凤凰战机、霸主战机之类的——并获得等级提升。 不过黄蜂战机不是很怕霸主战机吗？嗯，理论上是，但实际并非如此。霸主战机需要实际击中黄蜂战机才能摧毁它们。只要别让这种情况发生就行。 理想情况下，你希望你的黄蜂战机在成为主要输出单位之前能获得不错的等级提升。通常来说，等级2或3就足够了。通常你只需要2-3个【后排黄蜂】单位，只要它们的等级足够领先，就能摧毁一切。 如何对抗【后排黄蜂】？ 我所知道的唯一对策是【堡垒防空弹幕】。这能消灭黄蜂。 【防空弧光】或许可行，但它们需要能够开火，并且会遇到与【野马】类似的问题。 导弹——如何对抗？ 游戏中有一种名为【导弹拦截器】的科技。显然，它能完全阻止【防空堡垒】的首轮齐射？这看起来非常公平且平衡，绝对不会移除对抗【后排黄蜂】的唯一有效对策。

1对1游戏指南。 带实时解说的视频。 适用于阿尔法0.72版本。平衡会随时间调整，但游戏基本原理将保持不变。

这是一份面向那些已经玩过一段时间，知道如何操作、了解单位和技能机制，但就是无法赢得游戏的玩家的指南。这是一个充满克制关系的游戏。 你的目标是组建一套能够克制对手队伍的阵容，或者快速打造一支军队，让敌人来不及做出反制。要做到这一点，关键是不要过早过度投入某一种策略。当你看到获胜的机会时，再全力贯彻你的战术思路。过早过度投入的弊端在于，你很容易被对手克制。一旦在过度投入时被克制，就很难翻盘了，因为对手很可能会继续针对你的反制手段进行反制。以下是一些有助于运用这种战术的技巧： 1.在准备好专注发展某一单位类型前，不要在其身上投入过多资金。花费不应超过500至800 credits（具体取决于局势）。如果在早期建造过多同类型单位，敌人会提前想好如何有效克制这些单位，你将无法对他们形成突袭。但如果战场上已有几种不同类型的单位，你就有多种选择来投入资源，敌人也更难猜测你的策略。 2. 除非升级对战场局势至关重要，否则不要购买。例如护甲和护盾升级就是很好的例子。只需2个带有护甲的单位就能对抗大量低攻击力单位。这是一项小投资，不会让你过度专注于某一策略。护盾则是应对大量单体高伤害攻击的另一个例子。但即便有了这些升级，除非敌人逼你使用，否则不要轻易升级。通常，升级的威胁就足以让优秀的对手重新考虑策略。如果他们在你升级前就改变了策略，你就省下了升级的费用。比如尖牙单位对抗射手单位的情况：如果你让尖牙单位顶在前面承受几个射手的攻击，这时不需要购买护盾升级。但如果他们继续增加更多射手单位，导致你的尖牙单位效果大打折扣甚至完全失效，那么就一定要升级护盾。不过，至少你已经让他们在你的克制单位面前安心地出了更多射手。升级在你拥有更多单位时效果更佳。你需要拥有多种选择，以便在你决定升级时能够选择你想要升级的单位类型，这样敌人就必须猜测你将要投入哪个单位。 3. 除非是必要的升级，否则不要过早提升等级。护甲就是一个很好的例子，护甲会随着等级提升而变得更强。有时你需要提升那些承担大量承受伤害任务的单位等级。如果你过早升级，那就是在可能不会坚持使用或会被强力克制的单位类型上投入了更多资源。 4. 利用你的生命值来争取时间。输掉战斗除了给敌人提供升级经验外没有任何好处。但就像我之前说的，这也可能对他们造成不利影响。慢慢来，想清楚你要做什么。如果你在前几场战斗中失利，敌人以为自己占据优势并开始升级那些单位，你就可以花费更少的 credits 召唤克制单位。 5. 游戏初期要注意不要让单位过于突前。这会让该单位固定在前线。例如，如果你开局就让5个爬行者（crawlers）顶在前线，那么在整场游戏中前线就会一直有5个爬行者。敌人可以放置克制单位来消灭它们。但如果你把爬行者稍微后置，让它们在敌人建造野马（mustangs）来克制爬行者的几回合内被消灭。这时你就可以在爬行者前方放置钢球（steel balls）这类带护甲的单位。钢球会吸收所有伤害，迫使敌人想出新的应对策略。这只是一个简单粗糙的指南。我在过去48小时才开始玩，写这篇指南时我的战斗力只有1000多，但还在提升中。

实用技巧 基本事项 单位 爬行者

In this Guide I simply share my Insight’s how I found peace with a personal Issue by playing Mechabellum. My Issue was (and still is but to some much lower degree): Feeling Anger and Stress while and after a Battle. Especially when defeated. Here I share what was important for myself to learn so far. My Background In this Guide, Iam talking about my own experiences, methods that works and was interesting to research and learn for myself based on my own difficulty to really fully enjoy Mechabellum. Or to be more specific: While playing the game itself, and especially losing at the end, made me feel stressed and angry – And at the same time I still really enjoyed the gameplay. So I kept playing but more and more with the desire and upcoming question how to enjoy and stay relaxed while playing. I wanted to learn that. - It seemed absurd to me to feel anger & stress by a fictional video game, with no impact to real life, in which even the human interaction is largely based on a simple “gg” in the chat, meaning basically no clear insults that add's kind of „reasonable“ anger and stress level human to human wise while playing. Funnily the methods (how to solve my problem) or the new mindset, to be more precise, that occured to me basically came up all at once on the same day. And in the days that followed, I was able to articulate these insights more clearly for myself and confirm their effectiveness in practice as often as I wanted – with increased Peace and Enjoyment while playing Mechabellum as a side effect (Whereby this achievement also transfers when dealing with similar issues but in real life. But more on that later. :-)) Just to tell clearly what my results so far are, after more than a Week of counterchecking: ¤ I can tell I enjoy playing Mechabellum now. It’s like a „80% improvement“. - Still Iam practicing in Enjoyment and Relaxation. The Time before, I could’nt say from myself that I really enjoy Mechabellum but now I do. ¤ Being defeated is way less triggering emotions. - Still practicing to find peace while and after being defeated. If I find any worthy insights to add (in general), I maybe share it in this guide in a dedicated „News“ section. But still, losing isn't really as big a problem as it used to be. ¤ Iam very surprised myself that my MMR continuously increased from 1,4k to +1,7k since that moment. Honestly I was expecting the opposite. I played and playing mostly 1v1, with vissible rank. But that one is more of a „fun fact“. „How to reach higher MMR“ thats something iam not aiming for. ¤ And some personal things that I think and feel are’nt interesting enough to share here. However, I think about this Guide like a offered bouquet of flowers to someone. We take the Flowers we are interested in. And sometimes there is’nt anything interesting to find for ourself. If you’re still interested in reading: So, let’s find out. :-) 5 things I realised / changed for myself 1. Observing my Intentions and choosing the Fun Decisions When I make Decisions – I observe and ask myself: Is this Decision based on Idealism/ Perfectionsim / "Thats the Winning/ Safest Strat" or is it a Fun, Curiosity or Joy based decision iam about to do? Simply realising whats the Intention behind my decision brings me into the present moment and relaxes me. It reminds me: why Iam here, what really matters in the end when I play… . And in the next step, I try to put the fun decision into practice. (Although “Fun-based Decisions” isn't exactly the term Iam satisfied to use to describe my point of view. But I hope it’s or it gets more understandable by reading along what I mean with that.) - So simply: Every Decision Iam about to do, Iam watching out for Decisions In which I feel stress myself thinking: „ , that Iam forced to run after the Victory winning Feeling“ and replace such Decisions with Fun based ones instead. Whatever Fun means in these moments. For example: Instead of following the Feeling to be forced to play in a specific, usual way – to cross check myself if I would enjoy to go for an unusal unit combination instead. Taking use from crazy cards like „Crawler Lv5“ or „+500% HP Raiden Card“ is an example. Right now while writing, It doesn't make sense to me to give more examples, to go more into detail. The following “4 Key Points” sufficiently complement this topic, giving some other examples of Fun or Peace generating decisions someone can make. It's a journey of self-discovery not even tied to game decisions. 2. Avoid Speeding Up I avoid speeding Up the Game. Thats a huge, a HUGE Stress Factor I discovered for myself. Sometimes I feel forced myself to speed up because Iam thinking my opponent expect and wants me to do so. And sometimes I also speed up, out of habit, when I notice my mistake in a hurry - in the hope of being able to correct it in the next Round... . However. The free Time, not speeding Up: I can chill out and think about what I want to change in my strategy. I found this to be an enriching, kind of mind blowing discovery for myself. During this break, I am now also fully enjoying the battlefield instead of focusing primarily on the active phase of unit placement. - Enjoying the full Auto-Battler Concept that way. :-) I avoid speeding up no matter if Loosing or Winning. Just watching the Great Battle or the Great Failure, hehe I only speed Up when Its no longer Fun to watch the Battle. (Fun Decision :D) 3. How and What do I feel right now? Constantly checking myself: What do my Body (parts) feels like right now? In what Mood Iam right now? - More or less constantly counter checking these questions. Doing so, it brings me into the present moment and helps me find clarity when I want to make decisions and feel good about myself. An example: „I feel uncomfortable. Am I sitting comfortably? Am I too close to my monitor?“ - Sometimes, I realise while playing, my hands rest on the keyboard while the Auto-Battle is going on, and that makes my body feel tense up. „What if I take my hands off the keyboard and just watch the battle from a more zoomed-out view?“. … Staying in the present moment and discovering such unconscious unpleasantness was another turning point for me. * Dear reader, as you read my words, How and What Your body feels like right now? * Very often, I feel stress or tension in my neck and shoulders when playing. When I notice this, I relax these parts of my body by reminding myself that nothing bad is happening in my real life, simply observing the tension in my shoulders and realizing that this stress is actually pointless. Remembering myself to take deep breaths helps a lot aswell. So, in the essence: Come into the Present Moment, Feel the Body, Breathe consciously, Correct something if necessarily. 4. Distract myself when things gets too intense If something is to intense for me: Remembering that I can watch away helps very well to interrupt the connection to the situation. Remembering that Iam not forced to stay the same all the time. (I mean: Looking all the time on the Screen and only focusing on the Game.) I can: Switch to another program, look around the room, close the eyes and mute the computer instantly with a button - these are a few examples how to take care and protect ourselves for the own well being. Sometimes things are to intense and it needs distance to process it. - I think, some things may sound obvious in this Guide. It was interesting for me to consciously remember these five things, apply them, and check the results. 5. Viewing Video Games as a Form of Therapy and Self-Discovery Tool By Time I realised that I can look at Videogames as an relatively safe form of Therapy. (Thats how I call it) Knowing that Iam repeatedly facing the same problem in a specific game, such as: fear of human contact; shyness + speaking up; stress/fear/issues with defeat; being insulted; difficulty in communicating the own limits; impatience; being rushed; engaging in pointless, energy-sapping discussions; ignoring to listen to intuition; having a weak memorability; … or whatever could someones personal issue. I can make new experiences and experiment in a relatively safe and predict-, controllable environment. I can lose how many times I want without negative impact in real life, or making experiences in leadership, how to deal with mean people as a Host or Participant; learn how to identify good and toxic people based on the sound of their voice, the way how someone communicate or experimenting how to find peace when my Teammates, as usual, does’nt perform and don’t play the way I want them to - Improving my mindfulness, wisdom and social skills by doing so, which applys / I can cross-check in real life scenarios aswell. Considering Mechabellum (or games in general) as a alternative therapy for dealing with stress and defeat turned out to be a relaxing and expanded perspective for me. Instead of viewing video games predominantly negatively. Finding solutions for the very own real life problems. All of that by just playing videogames I like. I know these are not always „complete solutions“ for real life problems that were found and some issues are’nt a safe space to experiment with in videogames (Iam thinking about people with epilepsy for example), but I don't feel like going into every little detail in this Guide. Anyone who reads my words is encouraged to read between the lines, to think and check the content for themselves to see how much it makes sense. With this in mind, I wish you all the good on your own journey of discovery, finding new perspectives and ways of dealing with games = personal life issues. :-) Not everyone reacts to the same situation in the same way. There are always different ways to approach a situation. And I think the best ones are those that bring us more relaxation, enjoyment of life and inner peace. News - last update: December-2025

A few useful concepts and ideas I've collected over my time playing this game. Frontline and Backline Your frontline is what you use to take hits. Your backline is what you use to deal damage. Sometimes these can be the same unit, but generally, you want them to be different units. Specializing your frontline to deal more damage or your backline to be more durable can sometimes be useful, but it's often better to specialize your frontline to be more durable and your backline to deal more damage. If you are frontlining Sledgehammers and your opponent is frontlining Crawlers, it might be worthwhile to buy Mechanical Rage for your Sledgehammers to make them more effective at blowing up the Crawlers... but generally, you should avoid buying upgrades for dealing damage to your opponent's backline units on your frontline units, as they likely won't live long enough to target your opponent's backline. Be aware of what units your opponent is using to deal damage, and try to pick something for your frontline which is effective against them. If needed you can create a new frontline by putting units in front of your existing units. As your and your opponents units die, you both create 'new' frontlines- try to make sure your 'new' frontlines are good against whatever units your opponent has remaining. For example, if I see my opponent is backlining Mustangs, I may put Arclights with Armor Enhancement between my frontline and backline to tank them even once my frontline folds. When you buy a range or movement speed upgrade, be sure to consider how this affects your frontline and backline. You can often switch up your frontlines and backlines with these upgrades, and doing this intentionally can be quite powerful. Experience, Rank and Kills Units get experience when they kill other units. Simple enough, right? Each level of rank increases the units stats by it's base value. Killing a tower gives the unit which killed the tower a large amount of experience. Units which are higher rank are worth more experience. Units you kill with damage which isn't direct damage from another unit split their experience between all living units on your side. This means fire, missiles, sentry rockets etc will split EXP of the units they kill between your other units. Oddly, units killed by friendly fire from a Rhino Final Blitz do not award experience to the opponent. Units at full EXP cannot gain EXP toward their next level, and do not share EXP they gain with other units. Rank up your units whenever possible if you're looking for Rank advantage. Units gain EXP when other units are killed very close to them(roughly 30 meters?). This means if there are Crawlers sitting under Wasps, and the Wasps die, the Crawlers will gain EXP. If there's Crawlers on top of a big tanky unit, and the Crawlers get shot by Arclights, the big tanky unit will gain EXP. This works even on tower kills- so, if you've got a bunch of Crawlers all hitting a tower, they'll split some of the EXP. Percentages and Scaling Percentage Attack and Health increases stack additively with each other. This means the Mustang +50% attack upgrade and the Research Center +10% attack upgrade gives the Mustang 160% total attack, not 165% total attack. This includes upgrades such as Heavy Mustangs which give % increases to units. Rank affects a units base stats, and is not applied as a modifier. So a Rank 2 Mustang with both of those upgrades would deal 320% of the damage a normal Mustang would deal. Percentage Attack and Health decreases, however, stack multiplicatively with other attack and health modifiers. This means you cannot 'compensate' for % decreases with % increases all that effectively- a Mass-Produced Sledgehammer will have 425 attack, or 70% of a regular Sledgehammer's 608 attack. A Mass-Produced Sledgehammer with a Firepower Control System doubles it's 425 attack to 851, or 140% of a regular Sledgehammer's attack. That's still a very substantial difference(and why cost control specialist is not great.) Multiple % decreases stack multiplicatively with eachother as well, fortunately, so you don't need to worry about ending up with Sledgehammers with negative HP values. Range, Speed & Engagement Some units are faster than other units. Some units have more range. Both of these are significant factors to when a unit 'engages'- when it's shooting at something, or when it's taking fire from the enemy. You usually want your units to all engage at similar times, especially early-game. Simply ensuring your entire front-line engages at the same time will go a long way to helping you win more games. Units with more speed will run past units with less speed. This... seems fairly simple, but a lot of people seem to not quite get it. A fast unit like Crawlers, Steel Balls or Rhinos will run ahead of a slow unit like Sledgehammers or Fangs, even if you place them parallel. In order to get a better engagement, your fast units should usually be placed behind your slower units. Units with more range can be more safely placed forwards. Marksmen in particular are a good example of this. You can put them right behind your frontline- or even in front of your frontline if your frontline is fast enough- and they'll still be fairly safe. You absolutely want your long-range units to be firing as the enemy is firing on your own frontline, or even before. Later on, you may want a counter you have set up to engage at a more specific time- think a unit of Fangs a ways behind your line, which walk up once your opponent's Arclights are dead and distract their Marksmen from your more valuable Phoenixes. These sorts of timings are hard to see, and even harder to actually set up, but very worthwhile. Some upgrades change a unit's Speed or Range. These will change how your units engage. Be aware of them. This guide is unfinished I will be adding more to it as I play and learn more.